Что можно сажать и сеять под зиму – топ 10 огородных культур

Зима – это время, когда огородники могут отдыхать и набираться новых сил перед очередным сезоном выращивания фруктов, овощей и прочих культур. Тем более большая часть работы приходится именно на весну: нужно подготовить грунт, высадить растение, тщательно ухаживать за ним, поливать, удобрять и т. п. 

Но есть и такие огородники, которые не боятся предстоящих подобных мероприятий. Речь идёт о тех, которые половину работы уже выполнили до наступления зимы. Под половиной подразумевается посадка растений. Посадив огородные культуры осенью, можно не только уменьшить весенний объём работ, но и гораздо раньше получить урожай. 

Проблема только в том, что не каждый вид семян сможет пережить зимние холода, находясь под землёй. И чтобы не разочароваться весной, нужно заранее знать, какие именно растения взойдут после схождения снега, а какие лучше всё-таки посадить в апреле или мае. Главная отличительная особенность таких культур – морозостойкость. Хорошей устойчивостью к низким температурам обладают ранние сорта. Ниже представлены 10 огородных культур, которые лучше всего подходят для высаживания под зиму. 

Важно! Независимо от того, какое растение было решено посадить осенью, семена его нельзя замачивать перед посадкой.

1. Чеснок 

Чеснок можно сажать одним из двух способов: первый – на глубину около 5 см, второй – на глубину около 10 см. В обоих случаях предпочтение следует отдавать почве с невысокой кислотностью. 

Удобрение 

Рекомендуется добавить в почву удобрение: ведро перегноя, ложка мела, по две ложки золы и сульфата калия, ложка суперфосфата. Перед посадкой нужно обработать 1%-ным раствором медного купороса. После высаживания лунки закрывают компостом, а затем проводят мульчирование торфом, упавшими осенними листьями, лапником или хвоей. 

Формирование грядок 

Зубчики высаживают в грядки глубиной 25 см. Ширина каждой грядки – 100 см. Сформированные грядки нужно оставить на несколько суток, чтобы произошла усадка грунта. 

Подходящие сорта 

Лучше всего подходят стрелкующиеся сорта. К ним относятся Антошка, Кавалер, Богатырь. 

2. Свёкла 

Свёклу осенью сажают обычно в регионах, где не очень тёплое лето. Семена, прошедшие закалку холодом, весной дают ростки одновременно. Главное, правильно выбрать место и подготовить почву. 

Выбор места 

Свёкла любит свет. Поэтому место должно быть солнечным. Второе требование – оно должно хорошо проветриваться. 

Подготовка земли 

Участок необходимо подготовить: убрать лишние растения, внести фосфорно-калийные удобрения, добавить золу, перегной и перекопать на 25 см. 

Посадка 

Делаются бороздки глубиной 4 см и высаживаются семена. Грядки закрывают смесью компоста, земли и песка. Мульчирование проводится опилками, опавшей листвой и хвоей. 

3. Морковь 

Примерно за 50 суток до посадки моркови готовятся грядки глубиной 15 см. По кислотности почва должна быть слабокислая или хотя бы нейтральная. Рекомендуется внести перегной, золу и суперфосфат. Грядку накрывают плёнкой. Борозды засыпают почвой, смешанной с торфом. 

4. Щавель 

Щавель нужно сажать после первых заморозков. Место должно хорошо освещаться, но быть защищённым от ветра, дующего с севера. Семена этой культуры перед посадкой выдерживают в марганцовке или формалине. После засыпания семян грядки закрывают перегноем и проводят мульчирование опавшей листвой. 

5. Пастернак 

Пастернак – культура, отличающаяся неприхотливостью. Но всё же если правильно выполнить посадку, хорошо подготовив почву и семена, можно получить гораздо больше урожая, чем в случае, если к этапу подготовки будет халатное отношение. 

Условия 

Одно из главных условий – хорошая освещённость. Если света будет достаточно, урожайность увеличится почти в полтора раза. Начинать посадку нужно, когда земля немного подмёрзнет. Семена должны быть хорошо высушены. Оптимальная глубина лунок – 30 мм. 

Подходящие сорта 

Лучше всего подходят сорта круглого вида, отличающиеся ск

6. Редис 

Грядки для редиса должны быть достаточно глубокими. Место должно хорошо освещаться. Почву удобряют калием, фосфором, перегноем или компостом. Подготовку грунта проводят за 20 суток до посадки. После посева накрывают почвой и проводят мульчирование опилками, жёлтой листвой, соломой. 

Важно! Нужно стараться выбирать морозостойкий, раннеспелый, не нуждающийся в ярком свете сорт редиса. Чем крупнее семена, тем лучше. 

7. Укроп 

Укроп можно сажать вместе с кинзой. Урожайность обеих культур от этого меньше не станет. Можно высадить их прямо на одной грядке. Делать это рекомендуется после первых ночных морозов. Почва должна содержать органику. Перед посадкой следует её увлажнить. После посева грядки закрывают чуть подмёрзшей землёй. Заключительный этап – мульчирование. 

8. Петрушка 

Петрушку сажают так же, как и укроп. Нужно выбрать участок, хорошо защищённый от ветра. Предварительно землю следует хорошо сдобрить перегноем. Наиболее подходящие сорта – Аппетитная и Зелёный жемчуг. 

9. Лук 

Выбирая лук для осенней посадки, необходимо обращать внимание на его устойчивость к стрелкованию. Самые подходящие сорта – Арзамасский, Сеншуй, Даниловский, Шекспир, Стурон.

Посадка проводится при положительной температуре. Выбирать нужно участок, который располагается на возвышенности. Когда установятся стабильные низкие температуры, нужно накрыть грядки. Это обеспечит дополнительную защиту от холода. 

10. Репа 

Репу можно начинать сеять, как только установятся постоянные ночные заморозки. Это происходит обычно поздней весной или даже в начале зимы. Поэтому не стоит торопиться. Если выпадет снег, перед посадкой его можно аккуратно убрать с земли. 

А вот почву для засыпания бороздок лучше подготовить заранее. Она должна быть достаточно рыхлой. После засыпания грунт необходимо слегка уплотнить. Заключительный этап – мульчирование. Для этого, как всегда, используются опилки или осенние листья. 

Дополнительный уход 

Первые ростки появятся очень ранней весной. Постоянного тепла ещё нет, поэтому необходимо дополнительно позаботиться о молодых растениях. Возможно, придётся соорудить теплицу. Для этого достаточно просто поставить над грядками металлические дуги и растянуть прозрачный материал. Такая мера не только защитит от погодных условий, но и ускорит созревание на пару недель. Дальнейший уход сводится к своевременному удалению сорняков и поливу. 

Заключение 

Посадка под зиму – отличный способ получить ранний урожай и освободить себя от многих весенних работ. Но не каждая культура способна благополучно перезимовать в грунте. Следует выбирать не только из вида растений, но и из их сортов. Кроме того, необходимо обеспечить правильный осенний уход. И только в этом случае можно будет получать первые витамины и наслаждаться вкусом свежих овощей и зелени, не отправляясь за ними в магазин.                            

Что можно сажать под зиму на огороде?

Садоводы и огородники с каждым годом учатся рационально использовать свои сотки, чтобы получать все большую отдачу.

Один из способов повышения эффективности овощных грядок — проведение подзимнего посева. Его применяют как в открытом грунте, так и в необогреваемых теплицах из поликарбоната.

 

Содержание статьи:

Зачем сажать под зиму, и какие есть риски?

Наблюдения опытных огородников и деревенских жителей подтверждают неоспоримый факт: всходы семян, посеянных в зиму, крепче, дружнее и здоровее. Но мало кто из дачников применяет этот давно известный способ выращивания овощей.

Подзимний посев дает следующие преимущества:

• получение урожая на 2-3 недели раньше;
• частичный перенос весенних работ на менее загруженный период;
• повышение урожайности за счет использования потенциала талых вод: семена быстрее прорастают, ростки имеют большую силу роста;
• уход от специализированных вредителей за счет смещения фаз вегетации;
• соблюдение принципа «отсутствие черного пара»: почва не должна оставаться открытой для избежания иссушения и эрозии, а при подзимнем посеве всходы появляются вскоре после схода снега (в зависимости от культуры).

К сожалению, подзимний посев — это еще и риск остаться вовсе без всходов. Семена, посаженные с нарушениями рекомендаций, с большой вероятностью дадут преждевременные ростки, замерзнут, погибнут от выпревания или будут смыты талыми водами. Чтобы всего этого не допустить, достаточно правильно подготовить грядку и посеять семена в сроки.

Общие правила посева поздней осенью

Если посадку саженцев декоративных кустарников и плодово-ягодных культур проводят в начале осени, чтобы они успели укорениться, то для семян овощных действует другое правило: семена не должны проклюнуться и дать росток. Поэтому посев проводят в померзшую почву или даже после первого снега, а грядку готовят заранее. В Средней полосе подзимний посев проводят с последней декады октября до середины ноября. Более точные сроки определяют погодные условия.

Грядку нужно устраивать на солнечном, защищенном от северных ветров участке. Она не должна иметь уклона или неровностей. Выровненную поверхность слегка приминают и нарезают борозды под посев. Сделать это надо еще в сентябре. Чтобы не допустить переувлажнения, готовую грядку накрывают нетканым материалом.

Высевают сухие семена, без синтетических оболочек. Допускается только протравливание с последующим просушиванием до сыпучего состояния. Норму высева увеличивают в 1,5-2 раза (для зеленных достаточно на 25%), так как учитывают высокий выпад невызревших и больных семян и ослабленных ростков в экстремальных условиях. Не каждое семя прорастет после воздействия низких температур, но то, которое прорастет — даст начало крепкому и здоровому растению.

Глубину заделки семян увеличивают до 2-3 см. Если посев планируется проводить по промерзшей почве, то грунт для засыпки борозд лучше подготовить заранее и держать в прохладном месте. После посева грядку рекомендуется замульчировать слоем торфа или компоста толщиной в 2-3 см. Мульча послужит дополнительной защитой от сильных морозов и предотвратит образование корки весной.

Если по прогнозам ожидается малоснежная зима, то для дополнительной защиты семян грядку укрывают плотным лутрасилом. Поскольку материал хорошо пропускает воздух, нет риска выпревания всходов при частых весенних оттепелях. Альтернативой послужит 15-сантиметровый слой лапника или сухих веток.

Отдельно стоит отметить подзимнюю посадку луковичных культур. В отличие от семян, луковицы нельзя сажать в промерзшую землю. До наступления холодов они должны успеть дать корешки, но не всходы. Ориентироваться нужно на среднесуточную температуру. В Средней полосе озимый чеснок высаживают в конце сентября — начале октября.

Какие овощные культуры можно сажать под зиму?

Не все овощи можно сеять поздней осенью. Список ограничивается культурами с холодостойкими семенами и озимыми разновидностями.

К первой категории относятся:

• мелкий лук-севок
• лук-чернушка
• лук батун
• лук душистый
• лук шнитт
• морковь
• укроп
• кинза
• петрушка
• пастернак
• салат
• щавель
• рукола
• редис
• мангольд (листовая свекла)
• шпинат
• огуречная трава
• свекла столовая (нецветушные сорта для получения пучковой продукции)
• скорцонера (козелец)
• тмин
• котовник (кошачья мята)
• лофант анисовый
• шалфей мускатный
• рута садовая
• катран

На заметку! Лук-севок диаметром менее 1 см не пригоден для хранения, но при этом не стрелкуется после воздействия низких температур. Именно такой севок подойдет для подзимней посадки в конце сентября — начале октября. До наступления холодов луковички должны успеть укорениться.

Культуры второй категории: озимый чеснок и озимая рожь (сидерат). В органическом земледелии с основным упором на сидераты в зиму также можно высевать белую горчицу и рапс, занимая все освободившиеся участки, предназначенные в будущем году под высадку рассады плодовых овощей (томатов, огурцов, перцев, баклажан, кабачков).

Когда уже есть опыт подзимних посевов, стоит попробовать осенний посев томата. Семена этой культуры после воздействия низких температур в естественных условиях дают закаленную и здоровую рассаду. Для защиты всходов от заморозков обустраивают временный парник из дуг и пленки или спанбонда.

Подзимняя посадка цветов

Среди цветочных культур есть немало видов, требующих стратификации для более дружных всходов. Чаще всего в зиму сеют холодостойкие однолетники: астры, календулу, годецию, гипсофил, маттиолу, львиный зев, космею, эшшольцию.

Из многолетников осенью можно высевать ромашку садовую, гайлардию, лаватеру, гвоздику, колокольчик, аквилегию, тысячелистник, дороникум. В дальнейшем эти растения прекрасно размножаются самосевом. В результате цветоводы облегчают весенние работы по декорированию сада и получают более раннее и продолжительное цветение.

В зиму высаживают или рассаживают некоторые луковичные и корневищные. В первую очередь, тюльпаны, ирисы, лилейники, лилии, нарциссы, крокусы, гиацинты, мускари, пионы, примулу, флоксы.

Здесь сроки посадки начинаются с начала сентября, так как растения рано переходят в состояние покоя и перестраиваются на накопление питательных веществ в луковицах и корневищах. В осень растения укоренятся и в новом сезоне будут радовать цветением.

Когда убирают урожай при подзимнем посеве?

Семена, высеянные под зиму, начинают прорастать сразу после прогревания верхнего слоя почвы до требуемой температуры. В результате урожай можно собирать на 2-3 недели раньше, чем с грядок, посеянных весной. Особенно это относится к туговсхожим моркови и укропу, семена которых требуют хорошего увлажнения.

Чтобы ускорить формирование урожая, к примеру, зеленных, грядку, не дожидаясь схода снега, укрывают нетканым материалом. Также можно с осени воткнуть дуги, а ранней весной натянуть парниковую пленку. Такие временные укрытия ускорят прогревание почвы и прорастание семян, а также защитят молодые всходы от весенних заморозков.

Некоторые культуры с длинным периодом вегетации и низкой энергией прорастания успевают вызревать только при подзимнем посеве. В северных регионах с коротким летом перспективны подзимние посевы в необогреваемой теплице. Это позволит получить раннюю зелень и корнеплоды на пучок.

90000 Types of Grass That Can Be Planted in Late Fall & Early Winter | Home Guides 90001 90002 By Ruth de Jauregui Updated November 28, 2018 90003 90002 Your lawn, a place to relax, toss a ball or play tag, may consist of one type of grass or a combination of several species. Grasses are grouped into warm- and cool-season categories. Cool-season grasses are generally planted in fall and early winter, whereas warm-season grasses need warmer days and nights to thrive. Cool-season lawns often contain bluegrass, fescue, perennial ryegrass or a combination of the three.90003 90006 Bluegrass Species 90007 90002 Kentucky bluegrass (90009 Poa pratensis 90010), a fine-textured, dark-green grass, is hardy in U.S. Department of Agriculture plant hardiness zones 2 through 7 and is widely planted in the northern regions of the United States. It’s also winter hardy, thrives in full sun and is only slightly shade-tolerant. Although it forms a dense sod that’s suitable for a general-purpose lawn, it goes dormant during dry, hot weather. Improved varieties, such as ‘Everest’ and ‘Midnight,’ have an increased resistance to pests, heat and drought, but they are also more aggressive and require more care than older varieties.Kentucky bluegrass is best planted in fall, between September and November, but can also be planted in winter and spring, between February and May. 90003 90002 Rough-stalked bluegrass (90009 Poa trivialis 90010), USDA zones 4 through 7, thrives in moist, shady locations. This medium-textured, light- to medium-green bluegrass tolerates poorly drained locations and acidic soils. It is best planted in low-traffic areas and can not tolerate hot, dry weather. Plant rough-stalked bluegrass varieties, such as ‘Cypress’ and ‘Stardust,’ in spring or fall.90003 90016 Fescue Species 90007 90002 Fine fescues (90009 Festuca 90010 ssp.) Thrive in USDA zones 2 through 7. Chewings (90009 Festuca rubra 90010 var. 90009 commutata 90010), hard (90009 Festuca longifolia 90010) and creeping red (90009 Festuca rubra 90010 var. 90009 rubra 90010) fescues tolerate shade and acidic soils. All fescue species grow into thick, fine-leaved, deep-green turf and are often found in seed mixtures intended for shade. Hardy in USDA zones 2 through 7, these grasses prefer low-traffic areas with well-drained soil.Fall is best for planting fescues, but you can also plant them in spring. The varieties ‘Ambassador,’ ‘Cardinal’ and ‘Garnet’ are among those that are resistant to dollar spot, a fungal infection that results in round, blighted spots in the lawn. 90003 90032 Improved Tall Fescue 90007 90002 The improved tall fescue (90009 Festuca arundinacea 90010) varieties have finer leaves than the old broad-leaved varieties and grow into turf suitable for lawns and playgrounds. The improved varieties are also more resistant to pests and diseases.Tall fescue prefers full sun; when grown in shade, it tends to thin and clump. It is also hardy in USDA zones 2 through 7 and should be planted in fall. Varieties recommended by the National Turfgrass Evaluation Program include ‘2nd Millennium’ and ‘Cayenne.’ 90003 90038 Ryegrass Species 90007 90002 Ryegrass is available in annual (90009 Lolium multiflorum 90010) and perennial (90009 Lolium perenne 90010) species. Annual ryegrass may be grown in all zones, whereas perennial ryegrass, which is tolerant of wet soils, may be grown as a permanent lawn in USDA zones 3 through 6 or used for winter overseeding in USDA zones 7 through 10.Both are planted in fall, although perennial ryegrass may also be planted in spring. The ryegrasses are vigorous growers and should not compose more than 20 percent of grass seed mixes. The newer varieties, including ‘Blackhawk,’ Saturn II ‘and’ SR 4200 ‘have improved resistance to diseases and pests. 90003 90046 Planting a New Lawn 90007 90002 Plant a new lawn when soil temperatures cool to 55 F or when daytime temperatures dependably remain between 60 and 75 F, generally between September and November, depending on the local climate.Select the appropriate cool-season grass for the location. Your local county extension office can help you choose the right grass for your climate and location. 90003 90002 Prepare the soil by removing any existing grass and weeds. Till the soil to a depth of at least 3 inches, break up any dirt clods and remove rocks and debris. Make any changes to the slope or contour at this time; the soil should slope away from the house, garage and outbuildings. Fill in low spots. 90003 90002 Rake a layer of compost over the soil to add organic matter to clay and sandy soils.Avoid adding topsoil unless it’s necessary for filling in low spots or covering fill in a new subdivision. Topsoil contains weed seeds, and its quality varies depending on the supplier’s sources. Also add starter fertilizer and till the compost and fertilizer into the soil. Rake smooth and roll with a lawn roller. 90003 90002 Scatter the grass seed evenly over the soil, using a seed spreader for more uniform distribution. Sow the seed in one direction and then the opposite direction to ensure even coverage.Rake lightly to cover the seed with 1/4 to 1/2 inch of soil. Roll the weighted lawn roller over the soil a second time to ensure contact between the soil and seeds. If desired, add a light layer of straw mulch that barely covers the soil to help keep the soil and seeds in place. Water gently to moisten the soil to a depth of 1 inch. Keep the soil moist, but not soggy, until the seeds germinate and reach a height of about 3 inches. After the seeds germinate, keep the soil moist to a depth of 2 inches.90003 90056 Lawn Care 90007 90002 Mow regularly once the new grass reaches 3 inches tall. Avoid cutting more than 1/3 of the height of the grass by setting the mower to a high mowing height. Leave the grass clippings on the grass to return their nutrients to the soil, thus reducing the need for fertilizer. At this point, water once or twice a week, soaking the soil to a depth of 6 to 8 inches. 90003 90002 Before fertilizing, test the soil. Adjust the fertilizer amounts and timing according to the results of the soil test.A minimum fertilization schedule might include leaving the grass clippings on the lawn and adding 1 pound of actual nitrogen per 1,000 square feet of lawn in September. Always water thoroughly after fertilizing. 90003 90002 In areas with poor soil, a regular schedule of fertilization will improve the density and color of the lawn. Apply 1/2 pound actual nitrogen per 1,000 square feet of lawn in late August or September. Add another pound of nitrogen between October and early December. Add 1/2 pound of actual nitrogen between mid-March and April and repeat the treatment between May and mid-June.90003 90002 Adjust the fertilizer amounts as needed to increase the green in the grass and help it tolerate heavier use during its growing season. The amount of fertilizer applied per 1,000 square feet over the year should not exceed 5 pounds of actual nitrogen. 90003 90066 Overseeding Warm-Season Lawns 90007 90002 Warm 90069 — 90070 season grasses go dormant in winter. For a winter lawn in USDA zones 7 through 10, overseed the existing lawn with perennial ryegrass in fall when the weather cools.Mow the lawn; then rake it to thin the turf. Aerate the existing lawn if necessary to address soil compaction. Rake a thin layer of compost over the dormant grass and scatter starter fertilizer according to the package directions. Sow the grass seed evenly over the lawn and rake to ensure good seed-to-soil contact. Add more compost to cover the seed if necessary. Water the lawn thoroughly and keep it moist, but not soggy, until the new grass germinates. 90003 90072 Dormant Seeding 90007 90002 If you missed the window for fall seeding of a cool-season lawn, you can still plant a lawn for spring.Wait until late fall or early winter, when the soil is too cold for the seeds to germinate. The seeds will lie dormant until the soil warms to 55 degrees in spring. Prepare the area for either seeding or overseeding and scatter 3 to 4 pounds of seed for every 1,000 square feet of lawn. Cover the seeds with 1/4 to 1/2 inch of soil or compost and water to moisten the soil and seeds. Monitor the soil through winter and only water if the soil begins to dry out. When spring arrives, add additional grass seed to fill in thin or bare spots.90003.90000 17 Easiest Seeds To Start Indoors 90001 90002 We are a participant in the Amazon Services LLC Associates Program, an affiliate advertising program designed to provide a means for sites to earn advertising fees through links to Amazon.com. As an Amazon Associate I earn from qualifying purchases. 90003 90002 If you’re new to growing your own seeds, it’s best to begin with easy plants to grow indoors from seed. To help you be successful, I put together a list of some of the easiest seeds to start indoors; both flowers and vegetables.90003 90002 90007 90008 90009 90003 90002 Growing seeds can be really difficult to get the hang of, especially if you’ve never tried it before. But when you begin by growing the easiest seeds to start indoors, the you’re more likely to be successful. 90003 90002 Though there are many, many types of seeds that you can grow inside, I wanted to keep this list short so it’s not overwhelming for beginners. 90003 90002 I also included general planting times for each type of seed. But be sure to check the packets for the specific seed starting dates.90003 90017 17 Easiest Seeds To Start Indoors 90018 90002 Below, I broke my list down into two sections. One is for flowers, and the other one is for vegetables. Hopefully that will make it simple for you to find what you’re looking for. 90003 90002 So here is my list of the easiest plants to grow from seed indoors for beginners … 90003 90023 90002 Some of the best seeds to start inside 90003 90026 Easiest Flower Seeds To Start Indoors 90027 90002 First I’ll begin with a few of my favorite flower seeds that I always plant inside the house.I use a lot of them, both in my garden and in containers. 90003 90002 So it’s nice to be able to easily grow the seeds for pennies, instead of having to buy the plants every spring. 90003 90002 90033 1. Marigold — 90034 One of my all-time favorite flowers, marigolds are super easy seeds to grow indoors. They attract pollinators, and can help to deter pests from the garden too. 90003 90002 Start the seeds indoors 8-10 weeks before your average planting date in the spring. Two of my favorite varieties are french marigold and Crackerjack.90003 90038 90002 Marigold are easy plants to grow from seed indoors 90003 90002 90033 2. Castor bean — 90034 Castor bean seeds can be a bit fussy, so it’s much easier to start them indoors. Once they sprout, the seedlings grow really fast. Red castor bean is my favorite type to grow, and they are gorgeous. 90003 90002 Plant the seeds indoors about a month before you plan to move them outdoors. Learn how to grow castor bean from seeds here. 90003 90002 90033 3. Coleus — 90034 Coleus is definitely one of the best plants to grow indoors from seed because the seeds are tiny and could be washed away in the garden.90003 90002 Plus they take long time to mature from seeds. Plant the seeds inside 8-10 weeks before they can be transplanted outside. I like to grow this rainbow coleus blend. 90003 90002 90033 4. Zinnia — 90034 Another must-grow plant in my summer gardens are zinnias. They will not tolerate the cold, so it’s best to start them indoors in early spring rather than planting the seeds outside. 90003 90002 Plant them 4-5 weeks before your last frost date to give them a good head start. This Thumbelina dwarf zinnia is a gorgeous mix, as is this Solar Flare Blend.90003 90059 90002 Zinnia seeds are simple to grow inside from seeds 90003 90026 Easiest Vegetable Plants To Grow From Seed Indoors 90027 90002 Many types of vegetable seeds need to be started indoors in order to grow their best, and have plenty of time to mature to produce yummy food for us. 90003 90002 So I’ll continue my list by adding my top picks for the easiest vegetables to start early inside the house … 90003 90002 90033 5. Cauliflower — 90034 Since it can be a slow growing plant (depending on the variety), it’s best to sow cauliflower seeds indoors to give them jump on the growing season.90003 90002 Start the seeds 4-6 weeks before the average spring planting date in your area. You can not go wrong with the Early Snowball variety. Or try a fun mix with purple and white cauliflower seeds. 90003 90002 90033 6. Brussels sprouts — 90034 Brussels sprouts take a long time to grow from seeds, so start them inside 4-6 weeks before transplanting to the garden. 90003 90002 The seedlings can be planted outside in early spring, but protect them from freezing. Hestia Brussles sprouts is a great type to try growing.90003 90002 90033 7. Radicchio — 90034 Radicchio grows best in cool weather, so be sure to get this one planted early. 90003 90002 Sow the seeds inside 4-6 weeks before your average last spring frost date to give them a head start. Try this Early Treviso variety in your garden this year! 90003 90002 90033 8. Tomatoes — 90034 Tomatoes are one of the easiest seeds to start indoors (and probably the most popular too!). Sow them indoors about 6-8 weeks before average last frost. 90003 90002 Wait to plant the seedlings into the garden until the soil has warmed and all chance of frost is gone.Cherry tomatoes, Beefsteak and Brandywine are three of my favorite ones to grow every year. 90003 90092 90002 Tomatoes are easy seeds to plant indoors 90003 90002 90033 9. Watermelon — 90034 Since they have a really long growing season, it’s best to sow watermelon seeds indoors 4-6 weeks before your average last frost date. 90003 90002 Take care not to disturb the roots when transplanting the seedlings into the garden, or it could stunt their growth. If you have a long enough growing season, try Jubilee.Otherwise, Sugar Baby has a shorter time to harvest. 90003 90002 90033 10. Okra — 90034 Another fun plant to grow if you’ve never tried it is okra. Not only do they produce yummy food, the flowers are beautiful too! Plant the seeds 4-6 weeks before it’s safe to move them to the garden. 90003 90002 For better germination, soak the seeds in water for 12-24 hours before sowing. Red Burgundy is a must in my garden, but green okra is beautiful and tasty too! 90003 90002 90033 11. Basil — 90034 Basil is a fantastic plant to grow, and it does well in both the ground or in containers.Traditional green basil is a staple in my garden, but I love the purple variety too! 90003 90002 It will not tolerate the cold, and they need warm soil to germinate. So it’s much better to start them inside rather than in the garden. Start them indoors 6-8 weeks before moving outside. Learn how to grow basil from seed here. 90003 90002 90033 12. Eggplant — 90034 Eggplant are easy-to-grow seeds, and the plants are great for growing in containers or in the garden. 90003 90002 Plant them inside the house 8-12 weeks before your average planting date in the spring.Little Prince is a cute variety for growing in containers, and Black Beauty is a more traditional type of eggplant. 90003 90002 90033 13. Tomatillo — 90034 If you’re looking for a vigorous and highly productive vegetable for your garden, then try tomatillos. They are fun to grow, and delicious in salsa and sauces. 90003 90002 Sow the seeds indoors 6 weeks before the last spring frost. You can grow traditional green tomatillos, or try purple tomatillos. 90003 90125 90002 Tomatillo are good seeds to sow indoors 90003 90002 90033 14.Broccoli — 90034 If you’ve never grown broccoli before, you should definitely give it a try. These are some of my favorite broccoli seeds to plant every year. 90003 90002 Plant them 4-6 weeks before your average last frost. Learn how to grow broccoli from seed here. 90003 90002 90033 15. Kale — 90034 Kale is another cool season vegetable that you can harvest summer through late fall. They are a little slow to get going, so it’s best to give them a head start inside. 90003 90002 In early spring, sow the seeds indoors 3-6 weeks before your spring planting date.I recommend trying Chinese kale and Red Winter kale. 90003 90002 90033 16. Cabbage — 90034 Another slow-growing vegetable, cabbage does best when planted indoors 6-8 weeks before your average last spring frost date. 90003 90002 Seedlings should be transplanted into the garden in early spring, but be sure to protect them from freezing. Cabbage Red Acre adds amazing color to the garden. 90003 90002 90033 17. Peppers — 90034 Peppers are super easy plants to grow indoors from seed. Some of my favorites are sweet bell peppers, cayenne hot peppers and jalapenos.Start them about 8-12 weeks before last frost date in early spring. 90003 90002 If the soil is too cold it could stunt their growth, so wait until it’s warm before transplanting the seedlings into the garden. Learn how to grow peppers from seeds step-by-step. 90003 90152 90002 Peppers are one of the easiest seeds to grow indoors 90003 90002 It’s fun and rewarding to grow your own seeds! And, when you pick from this list of the easiest seeds to start indoors, you’re sure to have great success! Then, once you become a pro at growing these seeds, you can move on to trying other seeds.90003 90002 90158 90158 90003 90002 If you’re looking for detailed, step-by-step help for growing any plant you want from seed, then my online Seed Starting Course is exactly what you need! It’s a fun and comprehensive self-paced online course that will teach you everything you need to know about growing your own seeds. Enroll and get started today! 90003 90002 Otherwise, if you just want to get started growing seeds indoors, then you need my Starting Seeds Indoors eBook. It’s a quick-start guide for beginners that will get you going fast.90003 90026 Related Products 90027 90026 More Posts About Growing Seeds 90027 90002 90033 What would you add to this list of the easiest seeds to start indoors? Tell us in the comments below! 90034 90003 90002 90009 90003 90002 90177 90003.90000 Vegetable Gardening: A Beginner’s Guide 90001 90002 90003 90002 90005 Vegetable gardening is becoming more popular-both as a pastime and a food source. We experience satisfaction in planting a seed or transplant, watching it grow to maturity, and harvesting the fruits of our labors. In addition, vegetable gardening offers a good source of exercise, with the added benefits of healthy snacks and food for the table.90006 90003 90002 Vegetable gardening consists of selecting a site, planning the garden, preparing the soil, choosing the seeds and plants, planting a crop, and nurturing the plants until they are ready for harvest. The end result is fresh produce to eat, share, or sell. 90003 90002 Anyone who is willing to invest some time every day or two to nurture the plants can grow a vegetable garden.It does not take a lot of money, time, or talent, although some of each would be helpful. With patience and practice, your skills will improve every year. Do not be discouraged if the first attempt is not a huge success. 90003 90002 Growing vegetables takes some space, but not necessarily acres. A vegetable garden can be in the ground or in a planting bed, but it does not have to be. Many vegetables can be grown in containers. For example, enough lettuce for a salad can be grown in a 12-inch pot on the back deck.Add a few radishes and carrots, also grown in 12-inch containers, for spice and sweetness, and you have a good start on a delicious salad. 90003 90002 Success, however, takes more than just a place to grow the vegetables. They need sunlight, water, air, soil, fertilizer, and care. 90003 90002 Choose a convenient site in full sun with easy access to water and fertile, well-drained soil.Avoid areas near trees and large shrubs that will compete with the garden for sunlight, water, and nutrients. 90003 90002 90019 Sunlight. 90020 Most vegetables need at least eight hours of direct sunlight. Plants that we grow for their leaves-including leafy greens such as lettuce, kale, chard, and spinach-and plants that we grow for their storage roots (such as radishes, turnips, and beets) can be grown in as little as six hours of sunlight but do much better with eight hours or more. Plants that we grow for their fruit, including tomatoes, squash, and cucumbers, need at least eight and do better with 10 hours of sunlight.90003 90002 90019 Water. 90020 90005 90006 One of the most important aspects of gardening is water, which makes up 90 percent of a plant’s weight. Water is heavy and difficult to move, so locate the garden near a potable water supply, making it easy to water the garden properly. Dragging a hose hundreds of feet or carrying buckets of water across the yard every few days makes having a garden a lot more work. On average, vegetables need one inch of water per week, and you need to provide only what is not supplied by rain.Water the soil, not the plant. Many diseases are spread by water splashing on the leaves. Overwatering can also lead to insect and disease problems as well as washing nutrients away, converting a valuable garden resource into pollution in nearby streams. 90003 90002 Gardening is not as easy as simply planting a seed or transplant and watching the plant grow. Once a site is selected, there will be several other questions to consider in the planning phase.90003 90002 90019 What type of garden? 90020 90003 90002 Container gardens, raised beds, traditional rows, and intensive plantings are all possibilities. 90003 90002 90005 Container gardens 90006. Many vegetables can be grown in containers that are deep enough to support their root systems. Containers may range from as small as a 12-inch flowerpot to a half whisky barrel. The bigger the container, the easier it is to be successful. The larger the mature plant, the larger the container needs to be.Vegetables that do well in containers include beans, beets, carrots, collards, cucumbers, eggplants, garlic, kale, leeks, lettuces, mustard greens, peas, peppers, potatoes, spinach, squash, Swiss chard, and tomatoes. Mix and match vegetables in one container for extended beauty and harvest. Containers require more frequent irrigation than gardens, especially as the plants grow and require more water. A drip irrigation system connected to a timer is a great addition to a container garden. 90003 90002 90005 Raised beds.90006 A variety of materials can be used to construct raised beds, but do not use materials that might leach chemicals into the soil, such as old railroad ties. Soil in raised beds will heat up more quickly in the spring and stay warm longer into the fall. Vegetables in raised beds will require more frequent irrigation than those in an in-ground garden. When planned and planted properly, one 4-foot by 8-foot raised bed may supply a good portion of the produce for one or two people. The addition of trellises provides vertical gardening and increases the space available to vining plants like cucumbers and beans.90003 90002 Use intensive gardening techniques to optimize use of the space. Succession planting will also aid in maximizing the harvests from a raised bed in a small area. 90003 90002 90005 In-ground gardens. 90006 Larger areas allow gardeners to choose traditional row gardening or gardening in beds. While a row garden is easier to manage with a tractor for planting, harvesting, and other garden chores, planting in a bed makes better use of available space. Using beds allows for several rows to be planted closer together, shading weed seeds and preventing them from growing later in the season.Beds may require a bit more labor to plant initially. But when planted correctly, beds can reduce the need for weeding later in the season. You can also incorporate vegetables in your ornamental beds. 90003 90002 If you want more land, explore opportunities at a community garden. Visit the NC Community Gardens Directory for a list of active community gardens. 90003 90002 Whichever garden style is chosen, start small. Only plant the amount of space that you can manage joyfully. The garden should be fun and fascinating, not a chore to be dreaded and avoided.Start small, improve the soil, manage the weeds, and expand the garden as your skills and interests grow. 90003 90002 90019 What to plant? 90020 90003 90002 Grow what you like to eat. If space is limited, concentrate on vegetables that yield the greatest return for the effort, such as pole beans, tomatoes, root crops, and leafy greens. If you like to cook unusual foods, try vegetables that are difficult to find or expensive in the market-such as specialty lettuces or broccolini. 90003 90002 In North Carolina most vegetables are grown as annuals, but some biennials and perennials are also grown.Vegetables are grouped by when they grow: 90003 90062 90063 90005 Cool-season annuals. 90006 Plant these crops in early spring and early fall. They are cold-hardy and thrive in spring and fall when temperatures are below 70 ° F: beets, broccoli, Brussels sprouts, cabbage, carrots, cauliflower, collards, kale, kohlrabi, lettuce, mustard, onions, peas, potatoes, radishes, rutabagas, spinach, Swiss chard, and turnips. 90066 90063 90005 Warm-season annuals. 90006 Plant these crops after the last spring frost when soils have warmed up.They are frost sensitive and thrive in summer when temperatures are above 70 ° F: beans, cantaloupes, corn, cucumbers, eggplant, okra, peppers, pumpkins, southern peas, squash, sweet potatoes, tomatoes, and watermelons. 90066 90063 90005 Biennial crops 90006 90019 90020 such as artichokes grow the first year, and flower, fruit and die the second year. 90066 90063 90005 Perennial crops 90006 90019 90020 such as asparagus and rhubarb live for many years once established. 90066 90083 90002 To find recommended varieties for your garden based on citizen science reports, visit Cornell University’s Vegetable Varieties for Gardeners.90003 90002 90019 When to plant? 90020 90003 90002 Plan for year-round production through succession planting. 90003 90002 90005 Spring 90006. Plant cool-season crops early and warm-season crops in late spring. Use a cold frame or frost cloth to begin earlier in the season. 90003 90002 90005 Summer 90006. Cool-season crops will bolt as the days lengthen and temperatures rise. Use shade cloth to protect plants and extend the season. Warm-season crops planted in late spring will grow until the first fall frosts.In late summer, plant cool-season crops for fall. 90003 90002 90005 Fall 90006. Cool-season crops established in late summer will continue to grow through moderate to freezing temperatures. 90003 90002 90005 Winter. 90006 Cold hardy crops (such as kale, collards, and turnip greens) planted in fall may live through the winter. In colder areas, use a cold frame or frost cloth to extend the season. 90003 90002 For specific planting dates, consult your county Extension center. You can also use N.C. Cooperative Extension’s 90005 Eastern North Carolina Planting Calendar for Annual Vegetables, Fruits, and Herbs 90006, 90005 Central North Carolina Planting Calendar for Annual Vegetables, Fruits, and Herbs 90006, or 90005 Western North Carolina Planting Calendar for Annual Vegetables, Fruits, and Herbs 90006. 90003 90002 Scheduling when to plant and when to harvest can be done in several effective ways. Writing the planting dates and projected harvest dates on a calendar is a method used by many gardeners and farmers.Another method is drawing a diagram of the garden and writing projected planting and harvesting dates on the garden diagram. Knowing when an area will be harvested helps with planning when to plant another crop in that space. Using this method of planning allows for a small space to be managed to its fullest potential. 90003 90002 90019 How to organize the garden? 90020 90003 90002 If planting in rows, run them across the slope of the land to reduce erosion. If there is little or no slope, north to south orientation makes the best use of sunlight.When planting, group tall crops (corn, okra, and sunflowers) and trellised vines (peas and beans) together on the north side of the garden so they will not shade shorter plants. 90003 90002 Do not foster the buildup of insect and disease pests by growing the same types of plants in the same spot year after year. Instead, plan a three- to four-year crop rotation for each bed or garden area to prevent crops in the same plant family from being planted in the same space in succession (Table 1). 90003 90126 90127 90128 90019 Table 1.Common vegetables divided into plant families. 90020 90131 90132 90133 90132 90135 90136 90019 PLANT FAMILY 90020 90139 90136 90019 VEGETABLES & COVER CROPS 90020 90139 90144 90135 90136 Carrot (Apiaceae) 90139 90136 carrot, celery, parsley, parsnip 90139 90144 90135 90136 Goosefoot (Chenopodiaceae) 90139 90136 beet, spinach, Swiss chard 90139 90144 90135 90136 Grass (Poaceae) 90139 90136 barley, corn, oat, rye, sorghum, wheat 90139 90144 90135 90136 Mallow (Malvaceae) 90139 90136 okra 90139 90144 90135 90136 Mustard (Brassicaceae) 90139 90136 Bok choi, broccoli, Brussels sprouts, cabbage, cauliflower, Chinese cabbage, collards, kale, kohlrabi, mustard greens, pak chio, radish, rape, rutabaga, turnip 90139 90144 90135 90136 Nightshade (Solanaceae) 90139 90136 eggplant, pepper, potato, tomatillo, tomato 90139 90144 90135 90136 Onion (Alliaceae) 90139 90136 chive, garlic, leek, onion, shallot 90139 90144 90135 90136 Pea (Fabaceae) 90139 90136 alfalfa, bean, clover, lentil, pea, peanut, vetch 90139 90144 90135 90136 Squash (Cucurbitaceae) 90139 90136 cucumber, melon, pumpkin, gourd, squash 90139 90144 90135 90136 Sunflower (Asteraceae) 90139 90136 artichoke, endive, Jerusalem artichoke, lettuce, sunflower 90139 90144 90133 90206 90126 90002 Crop rotation reduces the likelihood of nematode, insect, or disease buildup in the soil.This method of planning works well when the garden consists of three or more raised beds or is large enough to be divided into three or more plots. Table 2 depicts a sample four-year crop rotation plan for a garden with four plots growing vegetables from four plant families. 90003 90126 90211 90128 90019 Table 2. Crop rotation plan. 90020 90131 90132 90135 90136 90139 90136 90019 Plot 1 90020 90139 90136 90019 Plot 2 90020 90139 90136 90019 Plot 3 90020 90139 90136 90019 Plot 4 90020 90139 90144 90135 90136 90019 Year 1 90020 90139 90136 A 90139 90136 B 90139 90136 C 90139 90136 D 90139 90144 90135 90136 90019 Year 2 90020 90139 90136 B 90139 90136 C 90139 90136 D 90139 90136 A 90139 90144 90135 90136 90019 Year 3 90020 90139 90136 C 90139 90136 D 90139 90136 A 90139 90136 B 90139 90144 90135 90136 90019 Year 4 90020 90139 90136 D 90139 90136 A 90139 90136 B 90139 90136 C 90139 90144 90133 90206 90126 90002 Having a garden plan makes it easier to decide what seeds or transplants to purchase, how many will be needed, and when they will be needed.Keeping a garden journal with previous garden plans is a good way to record what worked and what did not. Part of garden planning is going over what has worked in the past and what has not, so past mistakes can be avoided in the future. Things to record in the garden journal would include a list and map of what was planted, planting dates, varieties, source of plants, air and soil temperatures during the growing season, soil test results, fertilizers and pesticides applied, rainfall received, and amount and dates of harvest.Include photographs throughout the season. 90003 90298 90002 Raised bed. 90003 90002 Shawn Banks 90003 90303 90002 Vegetable garden beds.90003 90002 Lucy Bradley 90003 90308 90002 Summer vegetables.90003 90002 Shawn Banks 90003 90002 90005 Containers 90006: Purchase potting soil or make your own by combining equal parts of compost, shredded pine bark mulch, and vermiculite.Do not use garden soil in container gardens. 90003 90002 90005 Raised beds or in-ground gardens 90006: Amend your soil with organic material first (either homemade compost or purchased certified compost). Then submit a soil sample to determine the pH and nutrient content of your soil. The N.C. Cooperative Extension center in your county can provide a soil test kit to have your soil analyzed and obtain specific recommendations for growing vegetables. Amend the soil based on the recommendations from the soil analysis.90003 90002 Space plants according to the label on the seed packet or plant tag. Allow space for the plant to mature, and leave space for airflow between plants to prevent disease. 90003 90002 Plant seeds only two to three times as deep as the greatest diameter of the seed. Cover the seed and firm the soil lightly to ensure good seed-to-soil contact. For plants in peat cups or cubes, remove the part of the peat container that is above the potting soil in the container, and be sure to cover the containers well with soil when planting them in the garden.Acclimate transplants to their new environment by providing temporary shade for tender transplants for two or three days after setting them out. 90003 90002 Mulching helps conserve soil moisture, reduce weeds, and reduce erosion. Use shredded leaves, pine straw, newspaper, or other organic matter that will break down and improve the soil. 90003 90002 Plan for continual harvest by staggering planting dates at one- to two-week intervals. For example, if you are going to plant four sections of lettuce, plant the first week one, the second week two, the third week three, and the fourth week four.Table 3 depicts the planting and harvest schedule for a raised bed with weekly plantings of lettuce and other cool-season vegetables. As one crop is harvested, replant that area. Plan to grow crops in each of North Carolina’s three growing seasons. 90003 90126 90330 90128 90019 Table 3. Garden plan for a 4-Foot by 4-foot raised bed (each table cell represents a square foot of space.) 90020 90131 90132 90135 90136 90002 90019 Carrots 90020 90003 90002 Plant Feb.15 90003 90002 Harvest May 14 90003 90139 90136 90002 90019 Leaf lettuce 90020 90003 90002 Plant March 1 90003 90002 Harvest April 9 90003 90139 90136 90002 90019 Turnips 90020 90003 90002 Plant Feb. 1 90003 90002 Harvest April 1 90003 90139 90136 90002 90019 Spinach 90020 90003 90002 Plant Feb. 15 90003 90002 Harvest May 8 90003 90139 90144 90135 90136 90002 90019 Carrots 90020 90003 90002 Plant Feb.22 90003 90002 Harvest May 21 90003 90139 90136 90002 90019 Leaf lettuce 90020 90003 90002 Plant March 8 90003 90002 Harvest April 16 90003 90139 90136 90002 90019 Turnips 90020 90003 90002 Plant Feb. 8 90003 90002 Harvest April 8 90003 90139 90136 90002 90019 Spinach 90020 90003 90002 Plant Feb. 22 90003 90002 Harvest May 14 90003 90139 90144 90135 90136 90002 90019 Carrots 90020 90003 90002 Plant Mar.1 90003 90002 Harvest May 28 90003 90139 90136 90002 90019 Leaf lettuce 90020 90003 90002 Plant Mar. 15 90003 90002 Harvest April 23 90003 90139 90136 90002 90019 Turnips 90020 90003 90002 Plant Feb. 15 90003 90002 Harvest April 15 90003 90139 90136 90002 90019 Spinach 90020 90003 90002 Plant Mar. 1 90003 90002 Harvest May 21 90003 90139 90144 90135 90136 90002 90019 Carrots 90020 90003 90002 Plant Mar.8 90003 90002 Harvest June 4 90003 90139 90136 90002 90019 Leaf lettuce 90020 90003 90002 Plant Mar. 22 90003 90002 Harvest April 30 90003 90139 90136 90002 90019 Turnips 90020 90003 90002 Plant Feb. 22 90003 90002 Harvest April 22 90003 90139 90136 90002 90019 Spinach 90020 90003 90002 Plant Mar. 8 90003 90002 Harvest May 28 90003 90139 90144 90133 90206 90126 90002 90019 Seeds or transplants? 90020 90003 90002 Each planting method has advantages.90003 90002 90005 Seeds 90006. A greater variety of seeds are available than transplants, and seeds are less expensive. Some seeds can be sown directly into the garden. Plant seeds according to package directions. You can also grow your own transplants by planting seeds. Six to eight weeks before the transplanting date, sow the seeds according to packet directions into a container indoors or in a cold frame, greenhouse, or other protected growing structure. Gradually transition seedlings from the protected environment to the garden, hardening them off by slowly introducing the transplants into full sun for a longer period each day over a week’s time.90003 90002 90005 Transplants 90006. You can start a garden quickly with transplants and harvest crops sooner than with seeds. Small plants purchased from a garden center, catalog, or online provide a way to overcome seasonal limitations. Some plants take so long to mature that even if started from seed in the garden at the beginning of the season, they would still not be ready to harvest at the end of the season (Brussels sprouts, for example). Except for tomatoes, which can be planted slightly deeper, transplants should be planted in the ground at the same depth they were in the container.Disadvantages to using transplants include the increased cost compared to seeds and the limited number of varieties. Root crops (such as carrots, radishes, and beets) do not transplant well. 90003 90521 90002 Plant spacing. 90003 90002 Lucy Bradley 90003 90526 90002 Seeds.90003 90002 ArenaPhotoUK, bigstockphoto.com 90003 90531 90002 Transplants.90003 90002 Alex Raths, bigstockphoto.com 90003 90002 If it does not rain, water new seeds and transplants daily until established.Water mature plants as needed. Frequency will depend on rainfall and temperature. Check the soil for moisture, and watch plants for symptoms of drought stress (leaves drooping in the morning or early evening). Soil in the vegetable garden should be kept moist but not muddy. Knowing the type of soil in your garden will help you determine how frequently it should be watered. A soil that is heavy with lots of clay will need to be watered less frequently than a soil that is lighter with lots of air pockets, such as a sandy soil or container garden soil.90003 90002 Fertilize only as needed following the recommendations on your soil analysis. Crops with long growing seasons, such as corn and tomatoes, may need additional fertilizer partway through the growing season. Watch for symptoms of nitrogen and other nutrient deficiency (including leaves turning yellow and slow growth). Avoid the urge to overfertilize, which can produce lush plant growth but decrease flowering and fruit development and increase pest problems. 90003 90002 Mulch to maintain moisture and manage weeds.One to two inches of weed-free loose mulch (including shredded leaves, grass clippings (seed-free), wheat straw, and pine bark mulch) or five to six layers of newspaper should be enough to keep weeds down and the soil moist. 90003 90002 Extend the growing season by protecting crops from extreme hot and cold. Use mulch to moderate soil temperatures. Cold frames protected by a row cover create shade for heat-sensitive plants. Covered with frost cloth, cold frames protect plants during freezing temperatures.90003 90544 90002 A lettuce bed cold frame. 90003 90002 Shawn Banks 90003 90002 Pests are attracted to stressed plants, so keep plants happy and healthy with adequate sun, water, and fertility.90003 90002 Include flowering plants that support beneficial insects to control pests and aid pollination. 90003 90002 Select hardy disease- and pest-resistant seeds or plants by reading labels carefully. For example, tomato plant and seed labels that include VFN indicate a variety resistant to verticillium wilt, fusarium wilt, and nematodes. When choosing transplants, look for those that are healthy and free of insects and diseases. 90003 90002 Water the soil and root area, not the leaves.Soaker hoses and drip irrigation will reduce standing water on the foliage, which leads to foliar diseases. Avoid splashing soil, and any diseases it may carry, onto the leaves. 90003 90002 90005 Scout the garden 90006: Examine plants, including the underside of leaves, frequently for damage or disease and intervene early. Be sure to also check at night when slugs and snails are out. Many caterpillars are the same color as the leaf, so look closely for the pest and also for frass (the residue left by a pest after it eats plant parts).Learn to distinguish plant damaging pests from beneficial insects including pollinators such as bees that help fruit set, predators such as ladybird beetles that eat pests, and parasitic insects such as small wasps that lay eggs on pests. 90003 90002 Remove dead and diseased plants and discard in the trash. Remove weeds before they flower. Do not let weeds go to seed! 90003 90002 Practice crop rotation. Pests and diseases can build up in the soil near host plants. Reduce pest and disease problems each year by rotating the locations where annual vegetables are planted.90003 90002 Learn about the plants being grown. Know what is normal and what might become a problem. Specific plants are vulnerable to specific pests. For example, squash often get vine borers. Broccoli, collards, and cabbages get cabbage loopers. And melons are prone to fungus and other diseases. A gardener who knows the most likely pests and diseases for each crop will find it easy to prevent or intervene quickly when problems appear. 90003 90002 Use the least toxic pest management strategy available.When using pesticides, be kind to bees by not spraying plants while they are blooming and only spraying in the late afternoon. 90003 90002 Stay on top of challenges with a visit to the vegetable garden every day or two. Remove weeds, insect pests, and diseased plants when the problem first appears, before the problem spreads. 90003 90571 90002 Drip irrigation.90003 90002 Photozi, bigstockphoto.com 90003 90576 90002 Scouting for insect and disease problems.90003 90002 Shawn Banks 90003 90002 Plants produce fruits and seeds to reproduce.Once a plant produces mature fruit, it quits putting energy into reproduction. (The plant quits making flowers and fruit.) If fruit is removed before it fully matures, however, the plant will try again, producing more fruit. Many plants produce so quickly that they need to be harvested every couple of days. These include okra, string beans, garden peas, cucumbers, summer squash, and tomatoes. Daily garden visits ensure vegetables will be picked at the peak of perfection and not allowed to become overripe or spoil on the plant, attracting insects or animal scavengers.90003 90002 Look for signs that animals have been in the garden (such as footprints and droppings, which can pose a health risk by harboring parasites and disease organisms). Dispose of fruits and vegetables that may have come in contact with animals and their feces. 90003 90002 The easier the garden is to see and access, the more likely it will be visited on a regular basis. 90003 90587 90002 Harvesting lettuce.90003 90002 Alex Raths, bigstockphoto.com 90003 90002 The authors wish to express appreciation to Chris Gunter, Nicole Sanchez, Debra Ireland, Issac Lewis, and Barbara Scott for their assistance in preparing this publication.90003 90002 This revised publication is based in part on a previous work prepared by Larry Bass, retired consumer horticulture specialist: 90595 Bass, L. 1999. 90005 Vegetable Gardening-Quick Reference Guide 90006 (AG-12). Horticultural Information Leaflet 8103. Raleigh: NC State University. 90003 90599 90600 Shawn Banks 90601 90602 County Extension Director 90595 Carteret County 90604 90605 90599 90600 Lucy Bradley 90601 90602 Extension Specialist, Urban Horticulture 90595 Horticultural Science 90604 90605 90002 Find more information at the following NC State Extension websites: 90003 90002 Publication date: Sept.4, 2015 90595 AG-12 90003 90002 N.C. Cooperative Extension prohibits discrimination and harassment regardless of age, color, disability, family and marital status, gender identity, national origin, political beliefs, race, religion, sex (including pregnancy), sexual orientation and veteran status. 90003 .90000 What to sow and grow in June 90001 What to sow and grow in June | Thompson & Morgan 90002 90003 You have disabled javascript.Please enable this to gain the full experience of our website. 90004 90005 90006 90007 90008 90009 90010 90006 90007 With days at their longest, get sowing & growing in the month of June. 90013 Image: Olga Gorevan 90009 90010 90016 90002 90018 There’s plenty to keep you busy in the garden in June, but also plenty to sit back and enjoy! With the longest day bringing extra hours of warmth and sunshine, the threat of frost is now long past, and you can start planting in earnest.90019 90004 90002 Here are our top picks of seasonal things to sow and grow in the garden this month: 90004 90023 Flowers to sow and grow 90024 90002 Flowers to sow and grow this June include: 90004 90027 In the greenhouse / indoors 90028 90029 90030 • 90018 Sow winter-flowering pansies 90019 in seed trays so they’ll be ready for your winter containers. 90033 90013 90030 • 90018 It might seem a bit early, but start thinking about spring flowers for next year. 90019 Sow perennial seeds such as aquilegia, bellis, Canterbury bells, delphiniums and lupins indoors for flowering next year.90033 90013 90030 • 90018 Sow perennial scabiosa 90019 in pots or trays for years of attractive flowers which are loved by bees and butterflies. 90033 90013 90030 • For flowers that bridge the gap between spring and summer try growing forget-me-nots, foxgloves, sweet Williams, and wallflowers in seed trays now, for colour next year. 90033 90013 90030 • 90018 Now there is space on windowsills again, think about sowing biennials 90019 for next year. 90033 90052 90027 Direct sow outdoors 90028 90029 90030 • 90018 It’s not too late to direct sow calendula, candytuft, clarkia (90058 Godetia 90059), larkspur and limnanthes 90019 for a show of flowers later this summer.90033 90013 90030 • 90018 Nasturtiums 90019 are easy to grow in containers or from direct sowings, and quick to flower — use them in beds, containers, baskets and the vegetable plot 90033 90013 90030 • 90018 Scatter nigella 90019 seeds in your borders now for some striking blue late-summer flowers. 90033 90013 90030 • 90018 Grow the tallest sunflower 90019 from direct sowings — great fun for the kids! 90033 90052 90027 Plant outdoors 90028 90029 90030 • 90018 Now that the risk of frost has passed, 90019 plant out any remaining annual summer bedding plants.90033 90052 90023 Herbs & vegetables to sow and grow 90024 90005 90006 90007 90091 90009 90010 90006 90007 For a bright addition to your vegetable beds, plant Swiss Chard. 90013 Image: Azdora 90009 90010 90016 90002 Here’s what to sow and grow in the vegetable garden this June: 90004 90027 In the greenhouse / indoors 90028 90027 Direct sow outdoors 90028 90029 90030 • 90018 There’s still time to grow runner beans and french beans 90019 — sow them directly in the ground now.90033 90013 90030 • 90018 Sow beetroot thinly 90019, directly into the ground. 90033 90013 90030 • 90018 Sow broccoli and calabrese now in a nursery bed, 90019 for transplanting later on, or sow directly in your vegetable plot. 90033 90013 90030 • 90018 Direct sow carrots 90019 in rows and protect with fleece to prevent carrot fly attack. 90033 90013 90030 • 90018 Add colour to your stir-fries with chicory 90019. Seeds can be sown directly into the soil now.90033 90013 90030 • 90018 Sow fast-growing herbs 90019 such as coriander, dill and parsley directly into the ground or in containers indoors. 90033 90013 90030 • 90018 Try direct sowing hardy corn salad 90019 (Lamb’s Lettuce) for summer and winter salads. 90033 90013 90030 • 90018 Sow courgette and squash seeds 90019 in pots or directly outside now. 90033 90013 90030 • 90018 Think ahead to winter cropping and start kale seeds 90019 in a nursery bed now. 90033 90013 90030 • 90018 For something more unusual try sowing kohl rabi 90019 where you want it to grow — it’ll be ready in as little as 8 weeks after sowing.90033 90013 90030 • 90018 Try direct sowing nutritious pak choi 90019 every 3 weeks for a continuous crop. 90033 90013 90030 • 90018 Sow peas directly into the ground or start them off in modules 90019 if mice are a problem. Allow about 20 plants per person. 90033 90013 90030 • 90018 Sow radish seeds 90019 directly into the soil for quick and easy home-grown salads. 90033 90013 90030 • 90018 Salad leaves are one of the fastest and most productive crops you can grow 90019 — sow seeds in module trays under glass for transplanting in the garden later.Alternatively sow direct outside and thin out the seedlings. Sow every 3 or 4 weeks for continuous harvesting. 90033 90013 90030 • 90018 Direct sow spinach seeds in soil enriched with plenty of organic matter. 90019 Try growing spinach ‘Perpetual’ if you have very dry soil. 90033 90013 90030 • 90018 Sow spring onion seeds 90019 in drills outdoors for a quick crop to add to salads and stir fries. 90033 90013 90030 • 90018 Sow swede seeds outdoors 90019 in a rich fertile soil for autumn and winter crops.90033 90013 90030 • 90018 Sow sweetcorn seeds 90019 directly outside or start them off in modules. Grow at least 12 plants for good pollination and cropping. 90033 90013 90030 • 90018 Swiss Chard can be direct sown now 90019 for a colourful addition to both borders and the vegetable plot. 90033 90013 90030 • 90018 Start to sow turnips in drills outdoors 90019 for a great addition to casseroles and stews. 90033 90052 90027 Plant outdoors 90028 90029 90030 • 90018 Plant out sprouting broccoli spacing the plants 60cm apart.90019 Calabrese plants can be spaced closer together at 30cm (1ft) apart. 90033 90013 90030 • 90018 Plant your Brussels sprout plants 90019 deeply in the soil and earth them up as they grow for stability. 90033 90013 90030 • Plant out summer cabbages about 35cm (14in) apart. 90033 90013 90030 • 90018 Plant out cauliflowers into moist soil, 90019 and be sure not to allow the soil to dry out during growth. 90033 90013 90030 • 90018 Plant out pepper plants 90019 into grow-bags in a sheltered, sunny position.90033 90013 90030 • 90018 Plant out kale plants 90019 allowing them plenty of space to grow — space 75cm (30in) apart for the tall varieties. 90033 90013 90030 • 90018 Plant out leeks 90019 by dibbing a hole 15cm (6in) deep, dropping the leek inside and filling the hole with water. There’s no need to refill the hole with soil — this method will ensure a good blanch on the stems. 90033 90013 90030 • Plant out celery in blocks to increase natural blanching of the stems.90033 90013 90030 • 90018 Plant out celeriac 90019 into fertile soil. 90033 90013 90030 • 90018 Plant out cucumbers in the greenhouse 90019 or in grow bags outdoors in a sheltered, sunny position. 90033 90013 90030 • 90018 Plant out squashes and pumpkins 90019 into rich, fertile soil — they are heavy feeders! 90033 90013 90030 • 90018 Plant out your tomato plants 90019 in a warm and sunny location for the best crops. 90033 90013 90030 • 90018 Charlotte and Maris Peer potatoes can be planted from mid June to late July.90019 These are best planted into our 40 litre patio bags, 5 tubers per bag. No chitting is necessary as the warmth of the compost and the summer temperatures will quickly entice growth. 90033 90052 90023 Fruit to sow and grow 90024 90002 Try growing these fruits this month: 90004 90029 90030 • 90018 Order potted strawberry plants 90019 or cold-stored, bare rooted runners and get them in the ground straight away. Feed and water them and you’ll be able to harvest in about 8 weeks ‘time.Late season ‘Florence’ strawberries are a great choice. 90033 90013 90030 • 90018 When your cape gooseberry plants (Physalis peruviana) 90019 have reached 20cm high, plant them out in well drained soil in full sun or transplant into grow bags in the greenhouse. 90033 90013 90030 • 90018 Now that the risk of a late frost has passed, plant melon seedlings 90019 out into a sheltered, sunny spot. They need rich fertile soil and do especially well in a polytunnel. 90033 90052 90027 What to do in the garden archive 90028 90023 #YourTMGarden 90024 90002 For the chance to be featured, share your plant pictures with us 90013 on Instagram by using the hashtag #YourTMGarden 90004 90023 Join the T & M Gardener’s Club 90024 90003 90002 Join the T & M Gardener’s Club 90004 .