Конопатка сруба своими руками: инструметы, пошаговая инструкция

Дома и бани из сруба становятся все более и более популярными. В доме, построенном из натурального дерева, уютно и приятно находиться. Запахи древесины положительно воздействуют на настроение человека. Однако для того чтобы в таком строении было максимально комфортно жить, нужно выполнить все технологические этапы его возведения, отделки и обустройства. Одним из неотъемлемых этапов является конопатка сруба своими руками.

Конопатка сруба нужна для того, чтобы убрать мостики холода, который просачивается между бревнами.

Способы конопатки и необходимые инструменты

Приготовьтесь к тому, что конопатка отнимет у вас достаточно много времени и сил. Если вы собираетесь делать данную работу своими руками, знайте, что ее качество прежде всего зависит от правильного выбора инструментов, материалов и способа конопатки.

Подготовьте инструменты для конопатки сруба своими руками:

Схема конопатки сруба.

• молоток весом 300-400 г;
• стамеску;
• резиновую киянку;
• конопаточную лопатку.

Также вам понадобятся:

• растительное масло;
• материал для конопатки;
• мыло;
• формалин;
• вода.

Первую конопатку сруба своими руками следует выполнить примерно через полгода после завершения строительства дома. Вторая конопатка сруба выполняется через год после первой. В течение этого времени должна произойти усадка древесины.

Конопатка сруба может быть выполнена 2 методами. Первый из них известен под названием «в набор», а второй называется «в растяжку». В случае когда конопатка бруса выполняется «в набор», утеплительный материал скатывается в пряди, а затем данные пряди набивают в щели. Чем шире имеющиеся щели, тем больше прядей нужно будет набить в паз.

Конопатка сруба «в растяжку» выполняется отдельными прядями. После того как зазор между бревнами будет заполнен, пряди собираются в валик и вбиваются в паз.

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Какие материалы можно использовать для конопатки?

В большинстве случаев конопатка бруса выполняется с использованием таких материалов, как мох, пенька, войлок, пакля, льняные веревочки. Главным преимуществом мха и прочих натуральных материалов является то, что они не имеют искусственных примесей, которые могли бы навредить здоровью. Среди недостатков можно отметить плохую гигроскопичность и недолговечность. Помимо этого, натуральные материалы привлекают насекомых и прочих вредителей, что является опасным уже не только для самой теплоизоляции, но и для дома в целом.

Для конопатки лучше использовать продукцию из натурального льна – льноватин, паклю и льняную веревку.

Среди современных материалов наибольшей популярностью пользуется джут. Это волокно производится в Индии, Казахстане и Китае. Главными преимуществами джута перед ближайшими аналогами является гигроскопичность и высокая прочность. Даже если влажность воздуха будет составлять 80%, джут все равно останется сухим на ощупь и впитает не более 20% влаги.

Не используйте для конопатки войлок из джута. Помимо джута, в составе данного утеплителя содержится льняное волокно. Этот материал характеризуется низкой прочностью, он привлекает насекомых и очень легко поддается гниению.

Еще одним популярным материалом для конопатки сруба является льноватин. Он изготавливается из отходов, которые остаются в процессе производства льна. По своей сути льноватин является спрессованной льняной пылью. Характеризуется высокой жесткостью и хорошей прочностью.

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Рекомендации по конопатке сруба

Чтобы конопатка сруба прошла как можно успешнее, нужно придерживаться ряда несложных, но очень важных правил. Прежде всего запомните, что нельзя конопатить сруб сразу же после того, как он будет уложен. Со временем дерево будет давать усадку, появятся новые щели, и вы попросту выполните лишнюю работу. Если вы заказали строительство дома или бани сторонним мастерам, то они могут предложить вам проконопатить сруб сразу же после завершения строительства. Так они попросту хотят дополнительно заработать, поэтому соглашаться на подобное предложение не стоит.

Поэтому конопатить можно только после того, как сруб даст усадку, т.е. в среднем через 6-7 месяцев.

Начинать конопатку нужно с нижнего венца.

Конопатка начинается от самого нижнего венца и выполняется снизу вверх. Сначала конопатится один шов, строго по всему наружному периметру стены, после этого – внутри. Нельзя конопатить каждую стену дома в отдельности. Если вы так сделаете, то через какое-то время сруб перекосится. Конопатить и внутри, и снаружи обязательно. Если вы проигнорируете внутреннюю отделку, то через время стены могут отклониться от вертикали.

В процессе работы необходимо быть внимательным и аккуратным. Следите за тем, чтобы не появлялись перекосы стен. Если после завершения конопатки сруб поднимется на целый венец, то бревна начнут вываливаться из замков или шкантов, так что лучше такого не допускать.

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Пошаговая инструкция по конопатке сруба

Конопатка сруба будет рассмотрена на примере мха. Порядок работы с разными материалами практически не имеет различий, так что, научившись работать со мхом, вы без проблем освоите технологию конопатки всеми остальными материалами.

Следите за тем, чтобы мох не был пересушенным. Такой материал слишком хрупкий, и он будет крошиться прямо у вас в руках. Прежде чем приступать к конопатке, смочите материал в растворе из 200 граммов мыла и 500 граммов масла на 1 ведро чистой воды. Если используется пакля, то ее необходимо предварительно замочить в дезинфицирующем растворе (обычно используется формалин). Это защитит материал от разного рода вредителей. В целях повышения надежности конопатки допускается одновременное использование пакли и мха.

Первая конопатка, как правило, выполняется «в растяжку». Возьмите утеплитель и скрутите его концы в валик. При скручивании постарайтесь захватить все пряди, которые свисают из пазов.

В случае если получившийся валик будет недостаточно плотным и объемным, к нему необходимо добавить дополнительные пряди теплоизоляции. Обмотайте добавочную прядь концами, которые свисают из стены, и вставьте материал в имеющиеся щели. В идеале у вас должен получиться цельный валик, похожий на шерстяную нить на прялке.

Сначала обработайте самый нижний наружный шов по всему периметру дома, потом сделайте то же самое внутри. Далее обработайте второй шов, также по периметру. Когда вы будете забивать материал в пазы, бревна станут приподниматься. Если конопатиться будет всего 1 стена, может перекосить крышу. Поэтому работайте в строго установленной последовательности.

Уплотняйте валики при помощи специальной металлической или деревянной конопаточной лопатки. Наставьте кромку на скатанную теплоизоляцию и пристукните по рукоятке лопатки при помощи молотка-киянки. Лучше использовать деревянную конопатку – так вероятность повреждения сруба заметно снижается.

Через 1-1,5 года после первой конопатки выполняется вторая, теперь уже по методу «в набор». Скрутите утеплитель в плотный валик и вставьте в пазы. В случае если щели слишком большие, нужно собрать скрутку в несколько петель, чтобы полностью их закрыть. Уплотните лопаткой. Удачной работы!

90000 How to Caulk Trim Molding Before Painting 90001 90002 90003 If you want to improve the overall appearance of a paint job, it’s a good idea to caulk between the walls and trim moldings to fill any gaps before applying the finish paint. 90004 90003 Take care when choosing your caulk to use a paint-able acrylic latex or silicone enhanced acrylic. Do not use pure silicone for painting, it tends to repel both latex and oil-based coatings causing them to separate while wet and to peel when dry.Pure silicone should only be used for non-painted surfaces like tubs, showers, and tile or for weather-proofing to block drafts. Check the bottom of this page for videos demonstrating how to apply caulk to fill cracks. 90004 90007 Start With a Clean Surface 90008 90009 90003 To help the caulk adhere to new, bare wood and drywall, prime these surfaces first and let it dry completely before proceeding. 90004 90003 To re-caulk old trim, remove any loose material from the gap between the two surfaces first.In some cases, a putty knife can be slipped under the old caulk and the whole bead can be removed at once. Otherwise, you’ll have to wedge a putty knife into the crack and drag it along the length a few times to loosen the cracking material so it can be removed. 90004 90003 If the old caulk is cracked but not loose, trim it out with a sharp drywall knife. Cut cleanly along both sides of the crack but avoid cutting into the wood trim or the wall surface. 90004 90003 The gap to be filled should be no wider than about 1 | 4in when using caulk alone to fill it.If you have a wider gap than this, fill in with something else and then caulk it. You can use a strip of wood to fill extra-wide spaces, or fill the gap with spray-foam insulation first and then re-caulk it. 90004 90007 Setup the Caulk Gun 90008 90020 90021 90022 90003 Cut the applicator tip of the caulk tube at an angle far enough down to make about a 1 / 4in. opening. There’s a foil seal where the applicator tip meets the tube, pierce this with a long nail or the piercing rod included on some caulk guns.90004 90003 Insert the prepared tube into the gun and push the plunger down with your hand until it makes contact with the push plate inside. 90004 90003 Engage the trigger until caulk begins to flow from the tip but watch for excess that may run quickly from the tube. If this happens, turn the pen and pull back on the plunger to release the pressure. Some caulk guns are designed to reverse pressure on the push-plate as soon as you release the trigger. These are convenient and can make for a cleaner application.90004 90003 If the caulk continues to run even with the pressure off, hold a rag over the tip and begin filling the crack as soon as possible to prevent excessive caulk running out uncontrolled. 90004 90007 Fill the Crack with Caulk 90008 90033 90034 90003 Point the applicator tip into the crack starting at one end. Pull the gun along to leave a bead of caulk that just fills the space between the two surfaces. Avoid overfilling or you will have a lot to clean off before it sets. Fill a few feet of crack at a time and smooth it out before moving on.90004 90003 Fill all the seams between walls and trim molding, as well as between the individual molding pieces. If you have 2 or more pieces of trim that makeup your molding profile, be sure to fill each union to conceal any gaps that would otherwise be distracting once everything is painted. 90004 90003 Some pros recommend pushing the gun along the crack rather than pulling it as illustrated here. We do not recommend the pushing method because it can be difficult to monitor the flow of caulk, causing gaps to form in the bead.Going back to fill the gaps can cause problems with excess caulk and smears on the surrounding surfaces. 90004 90007 Smooth Out the Caulk Bead 90008 90043 90003 Wet an old, cotton t-shirt or similar cloth and squeeze out the excess water. With your index finger inside the cloth, run over the bead to smooth it out, while pushing caulk deeper into the crack. Turn the cloth to a clean spot frequently to avoid a buildup and rinse it as needed to remove collected caulk and avoid spreading it to unwanted areas.After you’ve smoothed the bead, go back and wipe any excess from the wall and trim surfaces before it can dry. 90004 90003 When you’ve finished, be careful not to disturb the caulk until it has time to set and cure. Acrylic latex caulk will set -become firm- in about an hour and cure -become hard- in about 24 hours. For the best finish, wait for the caulk to cure before cutting-in around the corners with a paint brush. 90004 90007 How to Re-Caulk a Shower 90008 90003 The cracks that commonly appear around a shower or tub are caused by the weight of water and bodies forcing the floor to sink with every use.When the tub is empty again it returns to its original level, leaving cracks around the base. To fix this problem and compensate for future movement, use a pure silicone caulk to fill the seams. 90004 90007 Scrape Off the Loose Caulk 90008 90054 90003 First, remove any cracking or loose caulk. If it’s very loose and coming away at the edges it may be possible to remove most of it by running a plastic putty knife under the bead as you pull it free. 90004 90003 To remove more stubborn caulk, begin by working a plastic or wooden scraper back and forth along the seam to remove as much as will come free.Then use a solvent to remove the rest. 90004 90003 You can scrape ceramic tile and porcelain with a metal putty knife or razor-blade scraper, but fiberglass tubs and showers should be treated with plastic or wood to avoid damage to the finish. 90004 90007 Dissolve the Old Silicone Caulk 90008 90063 90003 When all the loose material is removed, soften the remaining, old silicone using denatured alcohol. Soak a soft, absorbent rag with plenty of alcohol and apply it to the seam and surrounding edges.Let the solvent sit for several minutes and then use the rag to rub off as much caulk as will come free. 90004 90003 Soak the rag again, wrap it around your plastic or wooden knife and use it to force the remainder off. This can take a while and repeated soaking to get it all, but it will clean the surface completely and give you a fresh, smooth surface to work with. 90004 90003 On ceramics or porcelain, you can use a razor-blade scraper and steel wool to finish cleaning the surface. If you’re dealing with fiberglass or metal parts, use a plastic kitchen scrubber like those made by 3M® to remove the last bit of residue.90004 90003 When all the old caulk is removed, wipe the seam with a fresh rag soaked with alcohol and let it dry for about 10 minutes before re-caulking. 90004 90007 Fill the Gap with Caulk 90008 90074 90003 You can buy silicone caulk for tub and tile in a tube that resembles toothpaste or you can get it in a standard tube that will fit a caulk gun. 90004 90003 Cut the applicator tip on the tube at 45 ° and pierce the seal at the base using a long nail. Soak an old, cotton t-shirt or similar cloth in water and wring out the excess.Use the rag to smooth out the bead and wipe off excess caulk. Water will not dissolve the silicone but it will help to smooth the surface and wipe away wet caulk. 90004 90003 Begin working at one corner and fill the gap moving all the way to the next corner without stopping. Go slowly enough to fill the gap but not so slow that it overfills with caulk to avoid a mess. 90004 90003 Do not stand in the tub or shower while working to avoid overfilling. This will cause caulk to squeeze back out when you move and ruin your new finish.90004 90007 Smooth Out the Caulk Bead 90008 90085 90003 Use the wet rag to smooth out the bead while at the same time removing the excess caulk. Turn the rag frequently to avoid spreading the collected caulk to unwanted areas. 90004 90003 When you have wiped the excess caulk away with the rag, wet your index finger with water and go over the bead again lightly working from one end to the other. 90004 90003 Allow the caulk to set for an hour or two before touching it and do not use the shower for 12 to 24 hours to give it time to cure completely.90004 90092 More Like This on Do-It-Yourself-Help.com 90093 90094 90095 90003 90097 90095 90004 .90000 How to Repair Cracks with Expanding Spray Foam 90001 90002 90003 When cracks in places like kitchen countertops keep coming back, no matter how many times you caulk them, or wall cracks continue to reappear after repairing with tape and joint compound, the problem is movement in the two adjoining surfaces. 90004 90003 With counter cracks, either the backsplash, the countertop, or both are moving due to things like, a poor installation job; wall damage that leaves loose wallboard hanging in the breeze; or simply expansion and contraction due to normal atmospheric changes.90004 90003 This movement will quickly crack any caulking along counters as the caulk becomes rigid and the counter continues to move. And cracks will quickly reappear in walls as loose wallboard or plaster continues to move and the joint compound patching material does not. 90004 90003 The obvious solution to all this movement is to securely fasten each surface in place, usually with nails or screws. Unfortunately, that’s not always possible for surfaces like countertops and backsplashes, or wallboard with no nearby framing.With these surfaces it can be impossible to use fasteners to stabilize movement like this. One solution is to use expanding spray foam insulation and inject it behind a countertop or into a wall crack to hold things in place and limit future movement. When spray foam meets the air it expands very quickly and as it cures, it becomes somewhat rigid but still flexible enough to absorb the movement of a countertop or wall. The following process describes how to use expanding spray foam insulation to stop recurring cracks around the house.90004 90011 Choose the Right Expanding Foam 90012 90013 90003 Spray insulation is an expanding urethane foam in an aerosol can. Some foam labels may state: «for wide gaps» but as a general rule, they all tend to expand by about 3 times when exposed to the atmosphere. 90004 90003 For repairing cracks, use a spray foam that requires acetone for clean-up. This information will be on the back of the can. Do not use water-based foams that call for soap and water to clean up, they are too soft and flexible when they cure and will not stop the crack from coming back.90004 90003 Wear latex gloves and safety glasses when spraying the foam to keep it off your skin. It will stick to everything and will damage many surfaces, so mask any vulnerable surrounding areas that may come in contact with it. Also, have a rag and acetone handy for cleaning up spills. Nail polish remover will work for clean-up also if you do not have acetone. Be careful when using these solvents though, they will remove the finish on many surfaces including: furniture, flooring, painted surfaces, and possibly the dye in some fabrics.They will also mar plastic, rubber, and other soft materials. 90004 90011 Prepare the Crack for Repair 90012 90022 90023 90024 90003 Begin counter crack repairs using a putty knife to remove all loose wall material and scrape hard surfaces like tile backsplash and countertops with a razor-blade scraper to get everything completely clean. Then use the putty knife to pry any remaining caulk out of the gap between surfaces. 90004 90003 Clear wallboard cracks by pulling a putty knife through the length several times to dislodge and remove all loose material.Also be sure to remove any loose, peeling paint on each side of the wall crack. Use a vacuum cleaner to clear the crack of any dust or remaining wall material. On counters, also clean both surfaces well with spray cleaner or denatured alcohol to ensure a good bond when you re-caulk the gap later. 90004 90003 For counters, you’ll need about a quarter inch opening along the crack to allow for inserting the applicator tube. Wall crack will require less foam and are easier to fill by pointing the applicator directly into the gap.90004 90003 If after the crack is cleared of all old caulk, the counter gap is not wide enough, it will be harder to force foam between the two surface. If possible, try to widen the access by removing at bit of the grout on the backsplash tiles right where it meets the countertop. You can also use shims to pry the counter out slightly every six inches or so to allow for deeper insertion of the tube and then remove them immediately after application. 90004 90011 Fill the Crack with Foam 90012 90035 90036 90003 Spray foam insulation expands quickly when it meets the air and unwanted spray will be difficult to remove from surrounding surfaces so use care as you begin.It can be a good idea to start the spray on some newspaper and get an idea of ​​how fast it come out of the can. 90004 90003 Before beginning, shake the can well for one to two minutes. To avoid unwanted overspray, first attach the tube to the trigger and then thread the trigger onto the can before shaking. When you begin, pull the trigger slightly to start the flow and get a feel for how much pressure is required. Have a large cloth to throw over the tip if necessary to catch overflow. Some new applicators may have a shutoff tip you can slide up and down to stop the flow instead of having to resort to using a rag.90004 90003 To fill cracks, hold the can upside down and push the end of the tube into the gap. Squeeze the trigger for a couple of seconds or until the foam begins to expand out of the tube. When it has started flowing, release pressure on the trigger. The foam will continue to flow from the tube, so do not pull the end out of the crack until it stops. 90004 90003 Wait a few seconds to see if the foam starts to expand out of the crack. If it does not, pull the trigger again for a few seconds or until the foam starts to overflow.If it does not start overflowing a counter gap within a few seconds, push and / or pull the tube back and forth to reposition it while applying the trigger until it does. The foam must make contact with a solid surface behind the counter to fill the gap, so try to reposition the tube until it does. 90004 90045 90046 90003 Some spaces will require more foam than others. In areas where the space is minimal, the foam may expand immediately from the crack. If this happens, quickly relieve pressure on the trigger and pull the can along to fill the crack like you would with caulk.90004 90003 If you can not move along the crack, pull the tube free, hold a rag over the end and immediately insert it into a new spot. The goal is to produce a bead of foam to evenly fill the length of the crack. If you need to, go back and catch any missed spots until the whole crack is overflowing with foam, too much is better than too little. 90004 90003 When you’re done with the job, if you have any foam left in the can, you can keep it and use it again. You can either let the foam set in the end of the tube and then cut it back to where the foam is still liquid to start again, or you can clean the applicator and store it with the can for later use.90004 90003 Acetone can be used to completely clean the trigger and applicator tube. Before the foam sets, remove the parts from the can and use a small container to soak them in bath of acetone for a minute or so. Also, dribble a bit of acetone into the spout on the top of the can to soften the foam and keep it from clogging there. Tape the cleaned parts to the can and reassemble them when you want to use it again. 90004 90011 Trim the Excess Foam 90012 90057 90058 90003 When the entire crack has been filled, let the foam cure for an hour or follow guidelines on the label for curing time.To test for cured foam, push on the surface with your finger. It will be rigid and smooth like Styrofoam when it has cured. 90004 90003 When it’s ready, use a razor blade to trim the excess that overflowed between the countertop and backsplash. As with the prep, you can use the razor-blade scraper to clean excess foam off of hard surfaces like backsplash tile and countertops. 90004 90003 On wall cracks, slice back and forth with a putty knife held flat against the surface to cut the excess foam flush with the surrounding wall.Also scrape all surrounding surfaces to completely remove any overspray before making repairs with joint compound. 90004 90011 Re-Caulk Counters and Repair Wall Cracks 90012 90067 90068 90069 90003 On counter cracks, cut back all the protruding foam so it’s a bit below the level of the surrounding surface to ensure a smooth finish when re-caulking. 90004 90003 On wall cracks, make sure none of the cured foam remains higher than the surrounding wall surface to avoid an uneven repair.90004 90003 Caulk over the foam filled counter gap with an acrylic latex caulk or use pure silicone caulk in areas that are exposed to a lot of water like behind a kitchen sink and around bathroom tile. Use only enough caulk to cover the foam and slightly overlap onto the joining surfaces. Smooth out the caulk to leave a uniform bead along the whole length. Check this link for caulking techniques and tips for choosing and applying caulk. 90004 90003 Cover foam-filled wall cracks with mesh drywall tape and joint compound using the repair process described on the How to Repair Wall and Ceiling Cracks page.90004 90078 More Like This on Do-It-Yourself-Help.com 90079 .90000 That Escalated Quickly | Know Your Meme 90001 90002 About 90003 90004 90005 «That Escalated Quickly» 90006 is a memorable quote said by Ron Burgundy (played by Will Farrell) in a scene from the 2004 comedy film 90007 Anchorman: The Legend of Ron Burgundy 90008. In online discussions and comments, the expression can be used in response to a remark or a situation that has quickly gotten out of hand. 90009 90002 Origin 90003 90004 The quote «well, that escalated quickly, really that got out of hand fast! * Was originally heard in a scene from the 2004 comedy film Anchorman: The Legend of Ron Burgundy, in which Ron Burgundy and his co-anchors discuss their previous encounter of a violent midday brawl with the rival KQHS Channel 9 Evening News Team.90009 90014 90015 90016 90017 Ron Burgundy: 90005 Boy, that escalated quickly. I mean, that really got out of hand fast! 90006 90016 Champ Kind: It jumped up a notch. 90016 Ron Burgundy: It did, did not it? 90016 Brick Tamland: Yeah, I stabbed a man in the heart. 90016 Ron Burgundy: I ​​saw that! Brick killed a guy! Did you throw a trident? 90016 Brick Tamland: Yeah, there were horses, and a man on fire, and I killed a guy with a trident. 90016 Ron Burgundy: Brick, I’ve been meaning to talk to you about that.You should probably find yourself a safe house or a relative close by. Lay low for a while, because you’re probably wanted for murder. 90026 90004 Along with many other memorable lines from the movie, Ron Burgundy’s afterthought continued to be quoted in various comedy and movie discussion forums, as well as in comments of news articles and discussion threads as a general notion that something has gone out of control quickly. The earliest known use of the phrase outside of its original context can be found on the webcomic blog I Heart Eddit in a comic titled «In Which Eddie & Logan Make Like A Banana» posted on December 2nd, 2007.90009 90002 Spread 90003 90004 The quote was included in the YouTube compilation video «The Top Ten Lines from Anchorman-The Legend of Ron Burgundy» uploaded on July 20th, 2008, which has gained more than 1.2 million views in the span of four years. On September 17th, 2008, YouTuber ScopeStyle posted a kinetic-typographical video based on the dialogue from the scene. Another YouTube clip of the dialogue scene was uploaded by YouTuber Courage11235 on April 14th, 2011. 90009 90033 90015 90004 Beginning in 2010 the phrase became increasingly used as the title or the tag of various image, video or discussion posts on 4chan and Reddit, most notably with videos depicting public fights, screenshots of arguments in chatrooms and discussion threads relating to relationships and dating.Sometime in early 2012 an image macro based on the screen capture of Ron Burgundy from the dialogue scene began appearing on Reddit, FunnyJunk and Tumblr as a reaction image. 90009 90016 90002 Notable Examples 90003 90016 90016 90002 Search Interest 90003 90002 Know Your Meme Store 90003 90016 90002 External References 90003 .