Как выбрать гидро- и пароизоляцию — виды и характеристики пленки (с фото)

Зачем нужна пароизоляция?

Пароизоляционный слой — один из важнейших элементов кровельного пирога. Он необходим, чтобы защитить теплоизоляционный слой и стропильную систему от избытков водяных паров. Пар из внутренних помещений дома всегда поднимается вверх, пройдя через утеплитель, он остынет и осядет там же конденсатом, а это в свою очередь приведет к снижению свойств теплоизоляционного слоя и разбуханию/гниению балок и перекрытий. Но произойдет это только в случае отсутствия пароизоляционной пленки.

Выбираем лучшую пароизоляцию для кровли

Типы:

• однослойная пленка — чаще всего это простая полиэтиленовая пленка, самый дешевый и самый ненадежный материал. Это не самый прочный материал представленный на рынке.
• армированная — более крепкий материал, за счет усиливающего среднего слоя — армированной сетки. Сверху эта сетка закрыла полиэтиленом. Такое двустороннее ламинирование обеспечивает паропроницаемость.
• универсальная — она уникальна тем, что подходит для всех конструкций и работает со всеми видами утеплителей.
• неармированная мембранная — это многослойный материал с высокими изоляционными свойствами, благодаря фольгированному слою, который отлично справляется со своими функциями.

Парозиляционные материалы на рынке

Гидро- и пароизоляционные пленки Grand Line®

В линейке представлены гидро- и пароизоционные пленки и супердиффузионные мембраны. Пленка Grand Line H98 имеет ряд преимуществ — на рулоне обозначена схема укладки, сторона монтажа, границы нахлеста. Изготавливается из первичного сырья.

Пароизоляция для кровли Folder

В продукции Folder представлено несколько видов материала:

• Folder Steam Regulator – этот материал может обеспечить контролируемое паропропускание, держать уровень пароизоляции и максимально пропускать лишнюю влагу.
• Alum H90 – армированная пленка с фольгированным слоем, который позволяет удерживать тепло в помещении и при этом выводить излишек влаги.
• H98 – обладает ламинированным слоем, может применяться с любым теплоизоляционным материалом.

Гидро- и пароизоляция Tyvek®

В линейке Tyvek представлены две пароизоляционные мембраны:

• Tyvek® AirGuard® Reflective – полностью не пропускает воздух. Эта мембрана была разработана для более эффективной работы теплоизоляции. Возможность попадания конденсата минимальна.
• Tyvek® AirGuard® SD5 – это материал с ограниченной паропроницаемостью, за счет чего снижается риск образования и попадания конденсата.

Изоляционные материалы Delta

• DELTA-DAWI GP – простая однослойная полиэтиленовая пленка.
• DELTA-NEOVAP 20 – пленка с армирующим слоем, за счет чего риск повредить пароизоляцию становиться намного ниже.
• DELTA®-REFLEX PLUS / DELTA®-REFLEX – пленка с почти нулевой паропроницаемостью. Это гарантирует, что конденсат не попадет на теплозоляцию. Так же этот материал отражает тепло обратно внутрь помещения.

Изоляция от Icopal Fel’X

Изоляция от Icopal Fel’X — это материал состоящий из трех слоев — полипропилен, сбс-модифицированный битум и нетканая основа. Эти слои обеспечивают прочность, водонепроницаемость и защиту кровельного пирога.

Гидро- и пароизоляция для кровли Изоспан

В ассортименте представлено несколько товаров:

• Изоспан FS — состоит из нетканого плотна и металлизированной полипропиленовой пленки. Защищает конструкцию от пара, а также отражает тепло внутрь строения.
• Изоспан В имеет два слоя, первый слой гладкий, второй — шершавый, способный удерживать конденсат.
• Изоспан D – это мембрана, представляющая собой двухслойный материал. Выполняет функции гидро- и пароизоляции. Материал очень прочный и обладает высокой УФ-стабильностью.
• Изоспан DM – этот материал объединяет в себе функции ветрозащиты, гидроизоляции и пароизоляции. Состоит из трех слоев.

Гидро- и пароизоляция Optima

Один из экономичных материалов. В линейке представлена Optima B – пароизоляция, Optima C – обеспечивает паро- и гидроизоляцию и Optima D – универсальный гидро- и пароизоляционный материал повышенной прочностью.

Гидроизоляция Технониколь

Трехслойная мембрана, обладает высокой паропроницаемостью, быстро отводит влагу и защищает утеплитель.

Гидро- и пароизоляция Ондутис

Представляется собой ткань с добавкой UV-стабилизатора и защитным слоем.

• Ондутис В (R70) Смарт — классическая пленка. Выполняет все

90000 Do I Need a Vapor Barrier in My Shed? 90001 90002 90002 90004 When building a shed, there are many things to consider in the planning stage. What kind of floor do you want? Is your shed going to be heated and air-conditioned? What kind of moisture barrier for shed walls do you want? The list goes on. However, the last question about a moisture barrier is the one I’m going to address in this article. 90005 90004 Do I need a vapor barrier in my shed? 90007 A shed without heat and air-conditioning does not need to have a moisture barrier as it will cause condensation and mold growth.If you plan to build your shed on a concrete floor, a plastic barrier under the slab will prevent moisture from entering through the concrete. 90008 90005 90004 In this article, I’ll explain what a vapor barrier is and when you need to have it in your shed. 90005 90012 What is the Purpose of a Vapor Barrier? 90013 90004 90015 90015 90017 A vapor barrier is a non-permeable plastic that prevents air flow through a structure. It prevents moisture from causing rot and mold inside the walls and ceiling.90005 90004 In cold weather, climate condensation occurs when warm air meets cold, and forms water beads. The vapor barrier should be on the inside of the framing. 90005 90004 It prevents moisture inside the shed from getting into the insulation. Moisture in the insulation can cause rot and mold, and also lowers its R-value. 90005 90004 In a hot, humid climate where you air-condition your shed, condensation occurs when the hot air meets the cool air. A vapor barrier on the outside of the framing prevents the hot, humid airflow into the cool air zone.90005 90012 Do I Need a Vapor Barrier in My Shed? 90013 90027 Climate Controlled Shed 90028 90029 90030 90007 Hot Humid Climate 90008 90017 If you insulate and air-condition your shed, put the vapor barrier on the outside of the walls. It will prevent moisture from entering the shed and causing mold and rot. Any moisture that does enter will be absorbed by the drier cooler air inside the shed. The air exchange system will then expel the moisture out of the building. 90034 90035 90029 90030 90007 Cold Climate 90008 90017 If you use your shed year around as a workspace, you need to insulate and heat it.The vapor barrier should be on the inside of the framing. It will protect the insulation and wooden frame from the warm moist air inside the shed. Moisture that may enter the walls in the summer should be absorbed by the outside air when the temperature cools at night. 90034 90035 90027 Non-Climate Controlled Shed 90028 90029 90030 90007 Un-Insulated 90008 90017 A shed that has no insulation and is not heated or air-conditioned should not have a vapor barrier. The air flows through the shed causing moisture to build up inside due to superheating of the air inside the shed in summer.However, the air flow through the shed at night will also remove the moisture from the shed when drier air passes through. Ensure the shed is properly ventilated. 90034 90035 90029 90030 90007 Insulated 90008 90017 If you want to insulate a shed that will not be heated or air-conditioned, you’re better off not using a vapor barrier. The insulation slows heat transfer in or out, but the inside of the shed will still heat up in the summer. Without a moisture barrier, the airflow through the walls at night will remove moisture which plastic would otherwise trap.90034 90035 90004 If you’re concerned about the possibility of mold or rot, use rock-wool insulation or rigid insulation. It is also important to have proper ventilation in your shed to permit warm moist air to escape the structure. 90005 90012 What Kind of Plastic Do You Use for a Vapor Barrier? 90013 90063 90063 The industry standard since the 1960s for a vapor barrier has been 6-mil (6/1000 of an inch) clear polyethylene plastic. However, studies have shown that it is susceptible to tears and is permeable to moisture.90004 A minimum thickness of 10-mil polyethylene is recommended. It is stronger and will permit less moisture permeating through it. 90005 90004 90007 Plastic Poly Sheeting True 10 Mil 90008 is available o Amazon if you are interested. 90005 90012 Where to Put the Vapor Barrier in the Shed 90013 90004 In a heated shed in a cold climate, the moisture barrier should go on the inside of the framing. Place the plastic on the outside of the building for an air-conditioned shed in a hot, humid climate.90005 90004 Sheds that have 6 or more inches of air flow under them should not need a vapor barrier underneath. The air flow should keep the understructure dry. 90005 90004 If you enclose the space between the ground and your shed, then a moisture barrier is advisable between the plywood floor and the joists. Make sure you install vents to permit the air to circulate and keep the cavity dry. 90005 90004 It is also advisable to use ¾ «pressure-treated plywood for the shed floor. It will help prevent moisture from damaging the floor.90005 90012 Vapor Barrier for Shed on Concrete Slab 90013 90004 If you plan to pour a concrete slab upon which to build or place your shed, I recommend you put down a 20 mil vapor barrier. The thicker polyethylene-polyester blend is much less permeable to moisture than the 6 mil. 90005 90004 It is also more resistant to tearing and puncturing as you pour the concrete, even if a rebar grid sits on it. 90005 90004 The 20 mil poly under the concrete forms a moisture barrier between the ground and the concrete.It will prevent the concrete from curing too quickly. It also prevents ground moisture from being drawn up through the concrete into your shed. 90005 90004 Always use a sill membrane to protect wood framing from moisture on a concrete slab. If placing a shed with skids on a concrete slab, do NOT put poly down between the skids and the concrete. 90005 90004 The plastic will cause the wood to rot. There should be at least 6 inches of clearance for ventilation under the shed to remove moisture. 90005 90012 Vapor Barrier Under a Shed on a Gravel Pad 90013 90004 Wood sitting on the ground will rot more quickly than wood on gravel.A gravel pad will create a capillary break between the ground and the shed. 90005 90004 Make sure you have space between the floor and gravel to allow proper ventilation. The gravel pad should be 4 «to 6» thick and of clean ¾ «crushed stone without any particles, or pea gravel. 90005 90004 The gravel also creates a drain pad which allows any ground moisture and gasses to dissipate. Adding a 10 mil to 20 mil poly sheet between the ground and the gravel will create a vapor barrier. 90005 90012 Vapor Barrier for Wood Shed Floor 90013 90004 You should only use a vapor barrier if you plan to heat or air-condition your shed.There should always be proper ventilation between the ground and the shed floor. 90005 90004 The moisture barrier should be between the joists and plywood floor. That will permit any moisture to drain into the gravel under the shed and not settle into the insulation. 90005 90012 Moisture Barrier for Shed Walls 90013 90004 Your shed does not need moisture or vapor barrier unless you plan to heat or cool it. The plastic should be 6 mil poly, but 10 mil to 20 mil is better. 90005 90004 If you heat your shed, the barrier goes on the inside of the wooden frame.If you cool your shed, the moisture barrier goes on the outside of the building. 90005 90012 Vapor Barrier in Shed Roof 90013 90004 I’ve done a lot of research on this one. Academics and master builders seem to agree on only one thing; all attics need an air barrier, but not a vapor barrier … depending on your climate. 90005 90004 Cold climates with a vented attic should have a vapor barrier. Most others should use a vapor retarder like MemBrain, latex paint, or some other permeable membrane. 90005 90004 All attics should be vented … except in hot, humid climates where the air barrier should be on the outside of the structural shell.Hot, dry climates should be vented, and the air barrier also on the outside. 90005 90012 Vapor Barrier for a Plastic Shed 90013 90004 The walls of a plastic shed do not need a vapor barrier. If you have a moisture problem, consider installing passive or active vents near the roof. 90005 90004 The floor structure of a plastic shed can have 10 to 20 mil vapor barriers under the gravel it sits on. Alternatively, if it sits on patio stones that sit on the sand, the plastic barrier goes under the sand to prevent moisture from migrating up into the shed from the ground.90005 90012 Related Searches: Is House Wrap Considered a Vapor Barrier? 90013 90004 90007 90131 90131 A house wrap like Tyvek is not considered a vapor barrier. It is a permeable material that goes on the outside of a building. It is water resistant, but not vapor resistant. It breathes so that vapor will pass through it into, or out of, the building 90008. 90005 90004 90005 90004 90005 90004 90005 90004 90005 90143 90143 90004 Eugene has been a DIY enthusiast for most of his life and loves being creative while inspiring creativity in others.He is passionately interested in home improvement, renovation and woodworking. 90005.90000 Attic Vapor Barrier — Insulating Vented Attics In Cold Climates 90001 90002 By Todd Fratzel on Insulation 90003 90004 90005 Attic Vapor Barrier for Insulation in Cold Climates? 90006 90002 Insulation details change about as often as the weather here in New England. One question that seems to come up is whether or not to use a vapor barrier with attic insulation in cold climates? The answer to this question seems to have changed in recent years and may surprise you. 90003 90002 For this article, I’m strictly focusing on vented attics in a cold climate.The details will be different for un-vented attics and / or warm climates. 90003 90011 Air & Water Vapor Movement 90012 90002 The key to this discussion is understanding the movement of air and water vapor. In a perfect world none of the conditioned air (from the house) would enter the attic and none of the unconditioned air (from the attic) would enter the house. In addition, ideally all water vapor would be managed with mechanical systems. Unfortunately we do not live in a perfect world and building construction is FAR from ideal.90003 90002 Water vapor wants to move from warmer to colder air. That means in the winter time water vapor inside the home wants to move to the colder attic space. In the summer the warm humid air will want to move to the interior of a cooler home. 90003 90002 Ideally ceilings in homes would be perfectly sealed with drywall and good quality latex which would drastically reduce the movement of air and water vapor. However, in reality most ceilings today look like swiss cheese. Ceilings are riddled with holes from lights, mechanical vents and access hatches.Each one of those «penetrations» typically allows a significant amount of air and water vapor to move back and forth from the conditioned to unconditioned spaces. 90003 90011 Attic Vapor Barrier Detail for Cold Climates 90012 90002 Even though we apply vapor barriers to exterior insulated walls in cold climates it’s no longer recommended for ceilings (floor of the attic). Because it’s nearly impossible to seal penetrations in the ceiling, the reality is water vapor will get into the attic. Due to this inevitable fact it’s actually better to omit a vapor barrier between the insulation and drywall of the ceiling below the attic.90003 90002 The best approach for a vented attic, in a cold climate, is installing a layer of drywall with a good coat of latex paint (the paint creates a semi-permeable vapor barrier). The insulation (fiberglass or cellulose) is then placed on top of the drywall with no vapor barrier above or below. 90003 90002 The latex paint allows the ceiling to breath a bit but still help prevent significant movement of air and water vapor. This really helps prevent trapped moisture between a traditional vapor barrier and the drywall.90003 90002 90028 Should A Vapor Barrier be Used Over Attic Insulation? 90029 The answer is no. Either install un-faced fiberglass, loose fill fiberglass or cellulose directly on top of the drywall. 90003 90002 90003 90002 90003.90000 Air barriers in houses — Ecohome 90001 90002 Approximately 100 times more water vapor is carried into our walls by air leakage than is carried by vapor diffusion. That makes air barriers 100 times more important than vapour barriers, so why is no one talking about them? 90003 90002 We do not talk about air barriers because we are too busy talking about vapor barriers. An air barrier is not something you walk into a building supply store and buy; it is a design concept, and arguably a commitment.Products that can act as air barriers are drywall, sheathing, insulation, house wrap, even the polyethylene we normally install as a vapour barrier can act as an effective air barrier, but only if you set out with that in mind and properly seal it. 90003 90006 90007 90008 90009 90010 90011 90008 90009 90002 The difference between air barriers and vapor barriers © Ecohome 90003 90016 90010 90011 90019 90020 90002 What the above diagram attempts to illustrate, is how much moisture goes through a small hole, and how comparitively little would go through drywall if you did not even install a vapor barrier.This should indicate where our priorities should be in order to keep our walls dry. 90003 90023 Air Leakage in homes can: 90024 90025 90026 Increase heating and cooling costs 90027 90026 Cause moisture damage in walls 90027 90026 Allow pollutants and debris to collect in wall interiors 90027 90026 provide openings for insects and rodents to enter 90027 90034 90002 Carelessly installing your choice of air barrier products pretty much ensures that you will not have one, as there are few aspects to building enclosures that are less forgiving than the air barrier.90003 90023 Where to install an air barrier: 90024 90002 A building envelope should only ever have one vapour barrier, and it goes on the warm side of the insulation. Air barriers on the other hand, can be anywhere in the wall assembly and as plentiful as you like. It is highly unlikely that your air barrier will be flawless, so by all means have a second and a third. This is what is referred to as the ‘belt and suspenders’ approach. As the overall goal is to slow the migration of air through your wall, each additional air barrier will only help, and increase the effectiveness of the previous one.90003 90023 The five essential components of an air barrier: 90024 90002 The Institute for Research in Construction (IRC) at the National Research Council (NRC) lists the five basic requirements for an effective air barrier as being: 90003 90002 1. Continuous: no gaps, cracks or openings. 90003 90002 2. Impermeable to the leakage of air. 90003 90002 3. Rigid: supported in both directions from wind pressure. 90003 90002 4. Durable: must last the life of the building. 90003 90002 5.Repairable: access for repair if damaged. 90003 90023 A sampling of air barrier materials and techniques: 90024 90057 90058 House wrap: 90059 90060 90002 Also known as Water Resistive Membranes (WRBs), brand names include Tyvek and Typar. While its intent is largely as a breathable membrane to protect against water penetration behind cladding, it can be an effective air barrier if installed as such. Water vapor can pass through easily, but air can not. 90003 90002 The problem with it being relied upon as an air barrier is that it is rarely if ever installed with that in mind, so it rarely does a good job at it.An installation crew would need to be diligent with installation, avoid unnecessary perforations and carefully seal any that occur. 90003 90065 House wrap installation © Ecohome 90002 Alternatively, we would propose a ‘peel and stick’ membrane for a much better air seal (as seen in the image below). When a membrane is attached with an adhesive, it is no longer necessary to put holes in it with a stapler as it is being installed. Being tight to the sheathing also means holes from staples and nails will not be stretched out over time due to outward forces on the membrane from wind pressure.90003 90068 Peel-and-stick air barrier membrane applied with a primer © Ecohome 90002 90058 Polyethylene 90059: 90003 90002 For good or bad, almost all home construction in Canada includes a polyethylene vapour barrier. If that is your method of choice, with a little extra effort it can also act as your air barrier. For a truly successful polyethylene air barrier, it would need to be protected against wind pressure by being supported in both directions. One sure fire way to accomplish that would be to sandwich it between two solid materials like drywall for example, but this route unfortunately adds a measurable amount of cost.90003 90057 90058 Airtight drywall approach (A.D.A): 90059 90060 90002 With the help of gaskets and sealants, gypsum board (drywall) is a very effective air barrier, so long as the joints are sealed with drywall compound and tape; and all junctions at the floor, roof and openings are sealed with gaskets and appropriate sealants. 90003 90057 90058 Breathable insulated structural sheathing: 90059 90060 90002 Worth noting first — as a material, OSB (oriented strand board) is an effective air barrier.And if the joints are sealed properly it also acts as a vapour barrier, which is a no-go on the exterior of homes anywhere in Canada, as you will trap moisture inside your wall assembly.ng w 90003 90002 There are however, insulated sheathing materials that can provide an air barrier aloith a thermal barrier while still allowing walls to breath and therefore not trap water vapour in your walls. 90003 90002 A product has to be pretty sustainable for us to plug it; that said, we are fans of Excel II from Building Products of Canada Corp (BP).It replaces exterior sheathing, and installs directly to the studs. Excel II has high recycled content, contains no VOCs, formaldehyde or ozone depleting agents. The R Value is 1.5, enough to break the thermal bridge at each stud. And when joints are taped it makes an excellent air barrier. 90003 90091 Excel II sheathing © BP Canada 90002 There are many products and techniques that can make for a great air barrier, but most importantly we need to prioritize it during every step of the entire building enclosure process.90003 90002 Think of it as if you are trying to seal a leaky bucket and make it watertight. The water will easily find any holes you overlook, and eventually leave you with an empty bucket. Granted, a house will never run out of air, but likewise, it will also never run out of moisture to send through any holes in the air barrier. 90003 90002 90003 .90000 When will I need to use a moisture barrier when installing laminate flooring? 90001 90002 90003 90004 Bestlaminate 90004 June 15, 2016 90004 101 Questions Series, 101 Underlayment 90004 76,306 Views 90008 90003 All laminate flooring requires an underlayment to allow the floor to float and give the locking system its strength.Sometimes the underlayment is already attached for you, but you may hear the term moisture or vapor barrier when installing laminate flooring. You may be wondering if you will need to use a moisture barrier. Depending on your subfloor and project, you will need a specific type of underlayment. 90008 90003 You will need a moisture barrier underlayment when installing: 90008 90013 90014 On a cement subfloor 90015 90014 On any subfloor that has a chance of moisture coming up and soaking into the flooring 90015 90018 90003 Moisture barrier underlayment acts as a blockade between the subfloor and laminate to protect your floor from any moisture damage.It really is as simple as it sounds! 90008 90003 90022 90008 90024 The Different Types of Moisture Barriers Explained 90025 90003 Some moisture barriers are very simple and some are part of the underlayment you would install anyway. Moisture barrier + underlayment makes installing over moisture prone subfloors super easy! Here are our favorite budget-friendly underlayments that can provide your moisture blocking needs: 90008 90013 90014 Visqueen 6Mil PE Vapor Barrier: This is a thin, plastic underlayment not meant for padding, but only for blocking moisture.Perfect for under laminate flooring with pre-attached pad or luxury vinyl plank flooring, where you do not need the extra padding. 90015 90018 90013 90014 Vapor Barrier 2-in-1 Underlayment: This 2-in-1 underlayment will allow your laminate flooring to float, while correcting any minor subfloor imperfections, and will protect your floors from moisture. Use Vapor Barrier 2-in-1 when installing laminate flooring on cement subfloors or any subfloors with a risk of moisture coming up. 90015 90018 90013 90014 Vapor 3-in-1 Moisture Underlayment: Vapor barrier 3-in-1 underlayment is perfect for installation under laminate flooring to allow your floor to float and give a moisture barrier.It also self-adhesive, which will make installation even quicker. You will not have to fuss with tape or anything with this underlayment because it’s all right there for you. Vapor 3-in-1 Blue underlayment is the most budget friendly option of all vapor barrier underlayment. 90015 90018 90013 90014 Vapor 3-in-1 Underlayment Silver (100 sq.ft roll): This 3-in-1 underlayment can be used under any laminate flooring to allow your floor to float and create a moisture barrier. What makes this stand out from the 3-in-1 Blue underlayment is the added noise barrier to reduce foot fall noise.If you need a quiet floor with moisture blocking properties, this is a great option! 90015 90018 90003 90045 90008.